Another worktop routing question

[cannaefixit]

hello

I've asked a lot of questions lately (first DIY kitchen install ) and I've had a lot of really useful advice and reassurance (thanks to everyone, particularly JohnD,Jasonb,letiss,Trazor, ricicle and Dingbat).

So here's a last one (for this time anyway )

The last job I need to do is cut out two holes in the worktop for the hob and sink.

It's a 27mm thick solid beech worktop. It was supplied square-sectioned with no post-formed edge and I've kept it like that; I've just done a 4-biscuit+3 bolt butt joint in an L-shape as recommended by the supplier
http://www.hardwoodfloorstore.co.uk/worktops/worktop_installation_1.htm
and it 's worked fine.

(Bit of luck, my walls are very nearly 90 degrees. I had to chase into the plaster a bit but not much).

My router did a fair job of biscuiting+bolting the worktops but it's a bit weedy (Einhell 1020W). I do have a decent jigsaw but I don't really trust it to cut squarely through 27mm without creating a misshapen hole underneath. If I use the router to cut the holes I'm worried about scorching the wood as well as making a hole which the hob and sink will sit tight in. Do you think if I took things steady,in say 3mm passes I'd get away with using such a low-powered tool I see from other posts the pros recommend 1600W+.I have 2 unused Trend 12.7mm bits for the job.
This will be the second time I've used a router (first after doing the join!). I did read up on them and have practised a bit and I do reckon I've got it (well, haven't made my first big mistake yet!)
I do have a reasonable-looking jig to guide the router which came with excellent instructions
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....Sell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Tomorrow could either be a very good day or a rather bad one.

Jigsaw or router? How would you do this?
Advice, as always, appreciated.

 

[Jasonb]

If the sink fits over the worktop I would not be too worried about the quality of cut, if its an undermount thats a different matter.

For drop ins I would usually plunge cut with a circular saw, however if you only have a jigsaw/router then cut 3mm inside the line with the jigsaw and then clean up the cut with the router run along a straight edge clamped parallel to the cut line, cut about 6mm deep on each pass and you won't overload it.

Jason

 

[big-all]

if it is an undermounted sink you need to cut the top to overlap the inside edge of the sink by 12mm
and a cappilery groove i or someone else will give instructions how if reqired

also any edges near to walls that need to be moulded have to be done before instilation

 

[cannaefixit]

Just been having play on some pieces of scrap wood and reckon I can do a decent job (famous last words ) using the jigsaw+router as you describe Jason.

btw I do own a circular saw and even got it out of its box but I definitely do not have the bottle to attack a brand new wooden worktop with a tool like that Think I'll leave that to the pros!

The sink is a drop-in big-all.

thanks