router table

[artylarry]

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• artylarry
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

Rails for shaker cabinet doors, I know you need to help the end cut with some kind of rail to keep square, and your fingers, but wondering best practice to get straight. I see what you mean about running block against fence, i guess that will guarentee its square?
Was thinking somethin like this?

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• artylarry
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

However as fence not fixed i was worried that if i made mitre for rail that is fixed and i set fence wrong it will ruin cut.
I have a t&g bit, and will practice with some spare softwood before a test run with an oak board and 9mm ply i have. If that works i will go ahead and spruce up my kitchen finaly
i have found oak vaneered ply for centre of doors, with a bit of oil it may just work.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Nah, forget it! You are over thinking it IMHO. All you need is a squaring piece - basically a 12 x 12in corner off an MDF sheet which you fix a knob on top of. It is run against the fence and you hold the workpiece down with your fingere. If you want to get really fancy you could always build a DIY version of the "coping sled" sold by some retailers. The difficulty with using a router is that the height you cab raise the cutter above the router table is very limited

 

[artylarry]

Sweet, love that idea. Shall do a test run asap. Should garentee a square cut even if fence off i suppose, still waiting for that nvr switch, axminster are being douchebags. Been 10 days. Then im all set. If needs be I can look at that collet extension you mentioned before. Are they universal or should i look for something particular for m12ve?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If needs be I can look at that collet extension you mentioned before. Are they universal or should i look for something particular for m12ve?

They're pretty much universal - they normally have a 1/2in shaft to insert into the collet on the router - it's the other end where there's a difference. In general the ones that work best use a multi-slot collet, like the ER-20 collet used by the Ax model, whilst the poorer quality ones have one to 4-slot collets which aren't as good

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

Above: Simple squaring piece
Below: Fancier home-made version of a "coping sled"

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

Note the clear acrylic guard above the cutter (highly recommended!)

 

[artylarry]

[quoteNote the clear acrylic guard above the cutter (highly recommended!)

Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/router-table.427509/page-2#3334010#ixzz3TLukNE40[/quote]
do most fences use them? Any tips for bending 10mm acrylic

 

[artylarry]

Not got the hang of quoting yet!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Do most fences use them? Any tips for bending 10mm acrylic

I'm assuming that you'll be using a grooving cutter, like one of these, mounted on an arbor. If you are using a fence a guide bearing isn't strictly necessary. That would give you a set which when made up would look a bit like this:

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

If you mount two groovers with spacers in between you can cut your tongue (actually it's properly referred to as a stub tenon) in one pass:

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

Because the cutter will project through the fence and will be hidden by the material you are machining and the squaring piece/sled it's as well to attach something like a piece of 2 x 1in PAR softwood above it temporarily, edge on and say 10mm above the surface of the table. By doing that you run less risk of having an accident by sticking a finger into the cutter. It's as much a visual reminder of where the cutter is when it is hidden inside the workpiece as of anything else. It's standard industrial safety practice to guard exposed cutters - regardless of what the guys across the pond thinj or say (most of them are not trained woodworkers)

Hopefully these should clarify the matter:

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

Above: View from above the cutter. Note that it is covered from this viewpoint
Below: From the outfeed side showing that the push block "handle" will clear the cutter guard

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• Deleted member 174758
• 3 Mar 2015
• 1

As to bending 10mm acrylic, I think you'll find that a bit awkward. Thinner stuff up to 3 or 4mm can be heated with a heat gun and bent easily over a piece of softwood, but the thicker it gets the harder it gets

 

[artylarry]

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• artylarry
• 3 Mar 2015
• 2

yea, this one from trend.
I get ya, if i measure it right it may help stop stock rising, or should i give a little clearence.
Actually it will snag the cutter if that low i guess.
And safety first, I hear that.
Thats a great app you use fordrawing, or program on pc?

Have been on 'router forum' some knowledable folk but thinkn they speak another language over there. Not just sizes, but talk of exotic woods i wouldnt know and talk in code it seems. Your clear n simple for a novice like me.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Thats a great app you use fordrawing, or program on pc?

Google Sketchup. It's a freebie

PS Check your mesage inbox

 

[artylarry]

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• artylarry
• 7 Mar 2015
• 2

Heres a question, I have my scissor jack mounted and working well under my table. And its nice and smooth with great fine adjustment, however, when raising the router the mounting plate raises a little as well. I am having to hold down plate and lock of height then lower jack a turn to use it. how do you all overcome this?
Woukd it be couple of machine screws counter sunk into recess off mdf? Only problem with this is it is quite thin for that.

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• artylarry
• 24 Feb 2015
• 1

Also can I expect any problems from dust falling into router?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

when raising the router the mounting plate raises a little as well. I am having to hold down plate and lock of height then lower jack a turn to use it. how do you all overcome this?

You'll need to drill and countersink your mounting plate and screw it down onto the router table. If necessary repair washers and wingnuts on the underside

Also can I expect any problems from dust falling into router?

Always a good idea to hook-up a vacuum cleaner to take dust away from beneath the table, I'd say. I use the same vac I carry for the Festool saw and chop saw, and to do clean-up at the end of some jobs, but a household vac is almost as good, so long as you remember to empty it!