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Routing Cable in Stud Wall

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by Skavenger, 25 Oct 2020.

  1. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    Hi,
    I have built a stud wall and want to plasterboard it ready for plastering. In preparation for an electrician wiring new sockets on either side of the wall, I need to run some 2.5T&E from one side to the other.

    Happy with drilling through the studs to route the cable but:
    Does it need to be clipped to the noggins as well?
    Should it be run through at any particular height?

    Cable will run from an existing socket on the right. behind the grey pillar on the right, through stud work through the cripple studs above the door way, through the studs in the left section of wall and behind the grey pillar on the left, where it will feed a couple of new sockets.

    Pic of the wall attached.

    upload_2020-10-25_9-18-58.jpeg
     
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  3. conny

    conny

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    Is that commercial premises? It may be an idea to get the electrician in before you board over this side of the wall then if anything is wrong it's his responsibility.
     
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  4. 333rocky333

    333rocky333

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    In most cases you can not run two sockets from one socket using a single 2.5 cable, safe zones and cable depth also need to be considered for cable runs.
     
  5. crystal ball

    crystal ball

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    Have you thought about dado trunking, usually my go to in schools/offices, how are the lights switched and is there a need for an emergency light over the door?
     
  6. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    This is in a school - one of the parents is a qualified sparky who will be overseeing the work, nothing will be closed up until he is happy.

    It was the spark who has made this decision, to the right of the stud wall there is a socket which I believe is on a radial from a separate MCB, the existing sockets after this point will be disconnected.

    All of the new sockets will be fitted using 20mm conduit, however to get the cable across to the left hand wall where there are no sockets presently I was told to run the cable through the studwork. Can't get hold of the spark to ask the question hence the post here..
     
  7. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    Just been looking at this page, regarding 18th edition 'Prescribed Zones'.
    So the cable should come in at the height of any new sockets on the RH wall (just in view on the pic to the right of the grey pillar). Sockets will be above worktops. Then run up the corner of where the stud wall meets the existing wall. It should then run within the 150mm zone inside the very top of the stud wall, then run down the left hand corner and come out in line with the sockets above the worktop that will be fitted on the left hand wall (out of the picture).
     
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  9. DetlefSchmitz

    DetlefSchmitz

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    Whilst I think there is information missing; for example it is not clear if any of the sockets concerned are actually on the stud wall; the only safe zone you have is within 150mm of the ceiling. What happens at the ends depends on where the cable is going to. The wall is presumably not thicker than 100mm.
    I am surprised that the electrician did not give you more guidance tbh.

    EDIT: From your last post which I didn't see, it appears you now know about safe zones.
     
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  10. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    I didn't know about safe zones until I read the page, but was not going to run any cable until a qualified sparky had said where and how?
    Wall is built using C24 4 x 2 and 12mm plasterboard.

    Does the cable need to be clipped in place inside the stud work?

    As it stands, there will be now sockets in the stud wall. This wall will have a white board on it (dry wipe markers) and may be used for a ceiling mounted projector, which will be powered from a separate source.
     
  11. DetlefSchmitz

    DetlefSchmitz

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    The cable has to stay in the safe zone. If this means clipping then clipping it is. (I generally use conduit, but it's personal taste.) Of course sockets on the wall create their own safe zones and the routing needs adjusting accordingly. Don't route anything till you know exactly where all the sockets will be.
     
  12. crystal ball

    crystal ball

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    Dado all day long for me, no worries about safe zones, easy to modify/extend
     
  13. flameport

    flameport

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    No one here can help in any way - there is a vast amount of information missing both for the electrical and other areas such as fire safety.

    This forum is for DIY - not for work in a school or any other commercial or industrial premises.
    Asking basic questions about cable routes shows a total lack of knowledge and competence which cannot be resolved just by asking questions about things as and when they occur.

    Just some of the things that should have already been considered:
    T&E in a school - what kind of T&E? PVC insulated or OHLS or some other variant? Other cables and installation methods are available and would probably be a far better option.
    Circuit length, existing loadings, protective devices, expected new load, type of supply?
    Layout has been changed - is this now an inner room, what are the escape routes, who approved this design?
    Fire detectors/sounders will almost certainly need to be relocated/added, as it's now a separate enclosed space.
    Emergency lighting? Controls for the normal lighting? Heating and ventilation of this separate room?
    Does this new wall need to have a certain level of fire resistance? Or resistance to sound?
     
  14. crystal ball

    crystal ball

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    You would be surprised how much DIY goes on in the smaller junior / infant schools by willing parents, fire alarms are generally looked after by registered contractors though, but I would expect the building inspector to be involved, he certainly is on any project similar to this I have done
     
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