Hi all I was hoping someone can help. This has only been used twice before and then only lightly, when I start it up it fine but as soon as I turn the throttle up to use it it cuts out all the time, anyone got an idea why?
Ryobi petrol strimmer
- Thread starter catlad
- Start date
Sponsored Links
A model number would be helpful.
2 stroke or 4 stroke? Spark plug ok? No oil at the plug?
Does the butterfly valve open and close easily?
Is the choke cable connected correctly and are you letting it warm up before getting stuck in?
I have a 4 stroke ryobi multi tool and if I'm careless about its orientation oil can get into the cylinder and foul the plug. The sign is tons of black smoke and eratic behaviour - a quick clean up of the plug tends to sort it.
2 stroke or 4 stroke? Spark plug ok? No oil at the plug?
Does the butterfly valve open and close easily?
Is the choke cable connected correctly and are you letting it warm up before getting stuck in?
I have a 4 stroke ryobi multi tool and if I'm careless about its orientation oil can get into the cylinder and foul the plug. The sign is tons of black smoke and eratic behaviour - a quick clean up of the plug tends to sort it.
The model no.RLT26CDS there is no black smoke and yes I am giving it time to warm up.
- Joined
- 23 Sep 2010
- Messages
- 2,203
- Reaction score
- 484
- Country
Its recommended to let them idle for 10 seconds on the choke (cold start) and then go for a rev.
But we have one and you have to play with the choke lever as you rev it, just to get it up and running.
As mentioned above, worth popping off the black cover and see if the choke (cold start) lever is working the butterfly?
But there isn't much wrong or it wouldn't start for you. Just a bit temperamental after lying up.
Or it needs fresh fuel mix?
But we have one and you have to play with the choke lever as you rev it, just to get it up and running.
As mentioned above, worth popping off the black cover and see if the choke (cold start) lever is working the butterfly?
But there isn't much wrong or it wouldn't start for you. Just a bit temperamental after lying up.
Or it needs fresh fuel mix?
Sponsored Links
Does this machine have a fuel primer bulb?
John
John
I noticed a sticker with a help line number when I went to get the model number, so I gave them a call and the bloke I spoke too said it sounds like fuel starvation, he is sending me a tool and instructions to open the fuel vale a little so I will give it a go and let you know how it works out. thanks to everyone for the input so far, and yes burnerman it does have primer bulb.
OK - the primer bulb needs to be full when pressed a few times, and when the machine is running there should be signs of fuel flow through it - sort of like a fuel fizz if you get my drift.
The carb may have two jet adjustments - L for low speed fuel delivery and H for high speed fuel delivery and the problem with some Ryobi gear is that these jet screws can't be turned without the special hollow screwdriver.
If the machine doesn't come back to life, then its a carb strip imminent!
John
The carb may have two jet adjustments - L for low speed fuel delivery and H for high speed fuel delivery and the problem with some Ryobi gear is that these jet screws can't be turned without the special hollow screwdriver.
If the machine doesn't come back to life, then its a carb strip imminent!
John
Thanks he said he was posting me one of those hollow screw drivers, so I shall let you know how I get on.
- Joined
- 23 Sep 2010
- Messages
- 2,203
- Reaction score
- 484
- Country
From past experience, take note of where the jets are before you start readjusting. Because if you loose the original setup and then find that its not the problem, you will have a very difficult task resetting the two jets, especially on a Ryobi.
Well the tool arrived today and I gave it a go, I marked were I started from and adjusted it in small increments which speeded up the idling but as soon as I press the throttle it starts to die. It fires up fine with a bit of priming but its not usable has anybody any suggestions.
Time for a carb strip down I'm afraid.....not quite as daunting as you may think, but a can of aerosol carb cleaner is a must, and I don't do these without a compressed air supply.
Clean all of the external crap from the carb, and then remove it. The fuel pipes need to be a tight fit.
You'll see that the ends are squarish, one end may have a central screw and the other two or four screws.
Under these square ends lives a rubber diaphragm. One is called a metering diaphragm (usually under the single screw end) and the other is a pump diaphragm. This one pumps fuel from the tank to the carb and then back again - as there is no float chamber to act as a fuel reservoir.
Basically you need to remove every movable piece from the carb and flood the thing with carb cleaner, through all of the drillings. This also involves removing the needle valve which has a pin held by a single screw.
Beware the tiny spring in there!
At this point I'd be blowing compressed air down each and every drilling.
Looking at the diaphragms, if they are split or damaged, they need to be replaced.....if the carb is a Zama make it will have a C1Q number to help get spares. Never touch any part with kitchen paper or similar.
Careful reassembly, and turning each mixture screw out one turn should get you some result!
Good luck if you decide to get stuck in.
John
Clean all of the external crap from the carb, and then remove it. The fuel pipes need to be a tight fit.
You'll see that the ends are squarish, one end may have a central screw and the other two or four screws.
Under these square ends lives a rubber diaphragm. One is called a metering diaphragm (usually under the single screw end) and the other is a pump diaphragm. This one pumps fuel from the tank to the carb and then back again - as there is no float chamber to act as a fuel reservoir.
Basically you need to remove every movable piece from the carb and flood the thing with carb cleaner, through all of the drillings. This also involves removing the needle valve which has a pin held by a single screw.
Beware the tiny spring in there!
At this point I'd be blowing compressed air down each and every drilling.
Looking at the diaphragms, if they are split or damaged, they need to be replaced.....if the carb is a Zama make it will have a C1Q number to help get spares. Never touch any part with kitchen paper or similar.
Careful reassembly, and turning each mixture screw out one turn should get you some result!
Good luck if you decide to get stuck in.
John
Thanks for the reply.. I am prepared to get stuck in if you think its necessary for a machine that has only been used for one hour since new.
Well, obviously I cant say for sure, but try a new plug and see that the air filter is clean first.
After that, it can only be the carb. Unfortunately, your symptoms can be identical to a lean mixture (minute blockage somewhere) or a rich one - that snuffs the spark out. (Hence the air filter comment).
Other points - the fuel tank will have some sort of vent, and there will be a filter on a pipe immersed in the tank....both of which should be fine after short use.
Very old fuel gets a bit gummy (after at least a year.) To accommodate this we use a petrol preservative or better still, Aspen fuel which is benzine free and doesn't go off.
John
After that, it can only be the carb. Unfortunately, your symptoms can be identical to a lean mixture (minute blockage somewhere) or a rich one - that snuffs the spark out. (Hence the air filter comment).
Other points - the fuel tank will have some sort of vent, and there will be a filter on a pipe immersed in the tank....both of which should be fine after short use.
Very old fuel gets a bit gummy (after at least a year.) To accommodate this we use a petrol preservative or better still, Aspen fuel which is benzine free and doesn't go off.
John
Ok well lots to go at there, thanks I will have a play at the weekend and see how I get on.
My Ryobl strimmer would start, run for a minute or so and die - I stripped down the carb and cleaned it with carb cleaner, cleaned the fuel filter, changed the fuel and it made no difference
Then just as I was about to hit it with a sledgehammer I noticed the small dot on the top of the petrol filler cap, it was red as if stained with 2 stroke oil from the petrol and then it dawned on me - this must be the vent where air is sucked in as petrol is used
I cleaned that with carb cleaner too and bingo! The reason the motor died was presumably because of a lack of pressure in the fuel tank as no air was getting in - or coincidence
So before expensive replacement parts, or stripping down the carb, try cleaning the fuel filter AND the filler cap vent
Then just as I was about to hit it with a sledgehammer I noticed the small dot on the top of the petrol filler cap, it was red as if stained with 2 stroke oil from the petrol and then it dawned on me - this must be the vent where air is sucked in as petrol is used
I cleaned that with carb cleaner too and bingo! The reason the motor died was presumably because of a lack of pressure in the fuel tank as no air was getting in - or coincidence
So before expensive replacement parts, or stripping down the carb, try cleaning the fuel filter AND the filler cap vent
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
