safe plastering around socket

[masaru]

Hi, I hope I have this in the correct forum.
I intend to plaster/skim the walls in my house that require it, but some of these have sockets.
What options are available to me to make this process safe?
turn off electrics, remove socket, do something to the wires to make safe and away from plaster (would this enable me to turn the electics back on while plastering or is this ahuge no no), leave in this safe state but after finished plastering turn electrics back on. once dry, turn electics off, reattach socket, electric on?
I have no electric skills.
thanks.

 

[regsmyth]

My 2p worth...
Establish what circuits all the sockets and switches are on. You know, plug something in, turn it on, switch off the fuse at the fusebox, check appliance no longer working. Check with multimeter. Ditto with light switches.

Big disclaimer - knowing nothing about your setup, there could be all sorts of wiring problems, different circuits, unusual arrangements etc etc. When you mess about with electrics, don't take risks. It can kill you.

When you're happy you know, remove all switch and socket covers. Again, check for dead as you do so. If you need power for lighting or mixer, you'll need choc blocks to remake all socket connections, including earths. Tape up choc block connections and exposed ends, carefully squash cables back into backboxes, add tape to cover all boxes. You should then be able to turn power back on if you need it.
Do the plastering, papering, painting, then, remembering to switch off relevant circuits at the fusebox, remake connections.

Good luck, just don't rush into it.

 

[breezer]

put kettle on, pour water into themos flask, switch mains off at consumers unit (big box with fues and swicth marekd on / off, you may have more than one) undo all socket facia screws and pull sockets forward slightly.

plaster wait for it to dry (ish) put sockets back


be carfull check to see if any cables come out (they should't) and never force a socket back on

 

[JohnD]

add a bit:

after you have turned off the main switch(es) verify that the circuits are dead by plugging things in, switching on lamps etc.

Better still would be to use a test meter on every electrical point as you unscrew it. You can buy a meter for about £10 and we can advise you on how to test for dead (there are several steps required). Neon screwdrivers are not reliable.

If you need to take off any sockets or switches from their cables, draw a diagram showing where each coloured wire goes (sockets will have their terminals marked P, N and E; light switches may be marked Com, L1, L2 or something. A digital camera is very handy here.

With light switches and fittings in ceilings, there may be several wires of the same colour, but having different functions, so before disconnecting them, it is vital to make a diagram and identify the different cables that come in. One way is to mark them with a permanent pen, or write on white vinyl tape and wrap it round. If you have to disconnect any light fittings, come here for more advice. It is much harder and more tedious to identify lighting wires after they have been disconnected.

Sockets are fairly easy since all the reds (or browns) go into one terminal, all the blacks (or blues) into another, and all the Green&Yellows (or greens) into another. Best to buy a length of G&Y sheathing as you may find some earth wires have been left as bare copper (this is quite common but not acceptable).

If you disconnect any switches or sockets, do not leave any ends of wire exposed and flopping about. Put then neatly into a choc-block (terminal strip) that you can buy cheaply in any hardware store, DIY shed or electricians' shop. You can then push it back into the back-box out of the way.

Do not rely on back-boxes being held into the wall by plaster, they must all have at least one screw plugged into the wall.

You can use an old, dry small paint-brush to clean dust and grit out of the back-boxes, this will prevent it blowing out and spoiling your fresh paintwork.

 

[333rocky333]

There is a new thing in town called an OOZEE box or something , may help you out.

 

[masaru]

thank you all so much for your help. I think i will be using the chocbox and will follow all the safety giudelines you have highlighted. Thank you again.

I have been looking at the chocbox. for the connectors/termialblock what type/amp will i need for plugs/switches/lights?

 

[breezer]

30 & 5 amp respectively

 

[securespark]

There is a new thing in town called an OOZEE box or something , may help you out.

I thought that was a sub-machine gun....?

 

[ebee]

Yoozy box.
Developed by Steve Hughes.
Available at wholesalers

 

[masaru]

30 & 5 amp respectively

is that
socket 30A
light switch 5A
light fitting 5A

or
socket 30A
light switch 30A
light fitting 5A

 

[333rocky333]

30 & 5 amp respectively

socket 30A
light switch 5A
light fitting 5A

I would have thought

Depending how many wires to go in them, you may be better with 15 Amp for the lighting