Salamander s Flange problem

[SJ5]

I have just discovered that the top of my cylinder has the wrong size thread for my Salamander S Flange. What can I do to overcome this problem?2 photos: one is the top of the cylinder and the other is on there side of the cylinder. Any ideas?

 

[fixitflav]

Get a different Salamander S Flange, one that fits.

 

[SJ5]

Do they have different size flanges then?

 

[fixitflav]

Do they have different size flanges then?

I just googled it and first one that came up was 1" female x 22mm. The top outlet on your tank looks like 1" (hard to tell exactly from a photo), if so it will go straight on.

 

[SJ5]

Thanks for that - I believe the Salamander S Flange that I bought was the one that you are referring to with 1" female thread nut and male thread. The top of my cylinder is definitely ¾" as the female thread nut just sits on top with room to spare, so I have taken it back to Screwfix. I shall go to a plumbers merchant and see if they can help.

 

[fixitflav]

Thanks for that - I believe the Salamander S Flange that I bought was the one that you are referring to with 1" female thread nut and male thread. The top of my cylinder is definitely ¾" as the female thread nut just sits on top with room to spare, so I have taken it back to Screwfix. I shall go to a plumbers merchant and see if they can help.

If you can get hold of a 3/4" female x 1" male fitting that would do it, but I just searched a few places with no success.
If not, and you have headroom, you could use a 3/4" female x 22mm comp, and a 22mm comp x 1" male fitting, with a short length of pipe between. As long as it doesn't raise the internal pipe thing so high that it defeats the object.

 

[SJ5]

Thanks for that. Before I took it back to Screwfix, I tried to see if the Salamander S Flange aerator would fit in the top of the cylinder and it is too big to go in so another reason to take it back.
From my original post, the photo of the end nut is an Essex flange and looks like it can be used for an extra outlet. In the instruction booklet that came with the shower pump it does say that an Essex flange is an alternative method of connection. Not too sure how that would work with the original pipework that acts as a vent and supply to rest of the house. Will check YouTube to see how to do that as I have reconnected pipework until I am sure what to do. (attached photo). The Essex flange is just peeping out near the top of the cylinder.

 

[Madrab]

You can use the direct feed off the side into the pump as it will be air free or get one of these https://www.waterirrigation.co.uk/hydrosure-brass-bush-adaptor-1-bsp-female-to-3-4-bsp-male.html for the S flange into the top, you need to check though that the dip tube is low enough into the cylinder to pick up bubble free water when using the reducer

https://www.waterirrigation.co.uk/hydrosure-brass-bush-adaptor-1-bsp-female-to-3-4-bsp-male.html

 

[SJ5]

I will go for direct feed off the side as I have taken the Salamander S Flange back. The dip tube on the Salamander Flange did not fit into the hole of my cylinder anyway.
Not too sure how to go about this though, as I understood the schematics for a top flange fitting! Have I got tis right? So the direct feed goes to the hot inlet valve of pump and then the hot outlet from the pump to the rest of the house? What happens to the vent pipe and supply to house? (which is in the last photo)

 

[Madrab]

The vent still needs to run up to the cold tank but you can cap off the hot water supply after it branches out to the house HW circuit.

 

[fixitflav]

What happens to the vent pipe and supply to house? (which is in the last photo)

The cold feed flow to the HW tank must equal the total drawoff rate, via the pump and the top gravity connection. Whichever of the 2 options you use for the pump feed makes no difference.

 

[Elkato531]

It looks like you have a stainless steel cylinder rather than a copper one. These are supplied with 22mm compression fittings rather than 1" BSP tappings. This is why your flange won't fit.
The side outlet is not an Essex flange but a factory fitted outlet which can be used for a secondary return or to feed a shower pump. The other option is take the top outlet off at 45 degrees and T off the underside of the slope to feed the pump. This arrangement may be shown in the installation instruction for the pump and may be worth considering as the top cylinder take off does not currently conform to regulations.

 

[SJ5]

On closer inspection it is a steel cylinder. I have a Salamander RT50 Right pump and the instructions do say that I need to have a flange fitted (either Essex or S flange) as per warranty for the pump. As I want to have another go today do I purchase an Essex flange to replace the factory fitted outlet or take it from the top outlet which I assume is the vent to the cistern and hot water to the rest of the house?

 

[Hot&Cold]

do I purchase an Essex flange to replace the factory fitted outlet or take it from the top outlet which I assume is the vent to the cistern and hot water to the rest of the house?

The instructions supplied with the pump will tell you what they recommend,often in pictures.so if they do not mention or show the vent being used then its not recommended.

The existing capped tapping shown in the photo could be suitable as long as there is no pipe stop to prevent insertion of a dip tube.

otherwise its an essex flange in a new position,other designs of side entry flanges are available. Stuart Turner side entry flange is available and comes with a drill bit .

happy plumbing

 

[SJ5]

Thanks for your help! Will have a go now!