Salamander s Flange problem

Sponsored Links
As I want to have another go today do I purchase an Essex flange to replace the factory fitted outlet or take it from the top outlet which I assume is the vent to the cistern and hot water to the rest of the house?
Following on from Old&Cold's #14, does the pump come with (or stipulate) a dip tube? If not, or if so and the dip tube goes through the existing connector, there's no problem. Apart from being possibly slightly smaller bore, there's no difference between an Essex flange and and a factory fitted one.
the top outlet which I assume is the vent to the cistern and hot water to the rest of the house?
That's correct. Presumably if you take the pump feed from the top outlet, to satisfy the guarantee conditions you need a Salamander or similar.

But apart from the pump maker covering himself, as a general question, is air an issue anyway? Once the system is up and running I'd be surprised if there's enough air bubbles to cause a problem. And if the tee is taken off a vertical pipe any air bubbles will tend to go straight up to the vent.
 
The bubbles collect all around a pipe (vertical) so would be drawn into a T - Back in the day, a pipe @45 degrees from the top of the cylinder with it's T underneath the angled pipe, was an answer. As previously mentioned;)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the advice. After looking at the extra end near the top of the cylinder there isn't enough room to introduce a dip tube. So purchased an Essex flange and will make a new hole for the fitting. I have checked the size saw drill I will need and looked at these videos as extra guidance. Will let you know how it goes!!

 
Sponsored Links
Drilling/holesawing stainless - get a Starrett holesaw and a good HSS drill for the pilot;)
 
Is the Essex company still in business? I bought some Essex parts recently and they looked like old stock.
 
The bubbles collect all around a pipe (vertical) so would be drawn into a T - Back in the day, a pipe @45 degrees from the top of the cylinder with it's T underneath the angled pipe, was an answer. As previously mentioned;)
OK I hadn't quite pictured it but I do now. I'm still surprised there's enough air to cause a problem, but there must be if such an arrangement is found necessary. Takes up a fair bit of vertical space though.
 
The secondary tapping you have on the side of the cylinder should be far enough down to negate air bubbles being drawn in, (air bubbles are created when the water is heated and the dissolved air is forced out, they then rise to the top of the cylinder and the pump draws them in causing cavitation at the impeller blade ends, that can cause damage hence the need for a flange or as @Nige F mentions an angled up pipe with a downwards facing Tee for the draw off) - an essex flange is in essence what you have already, in reality it's just a secondary tapping.
 
Thanks, I'll make a note of that supplier. I'd looked on Screwfix and a couple of other sites without success.

Yeah, they're not really commonly used fittings. I have a few erroneous suppliers that I go to, to look for strange bits, usually not true plumbing suppliers.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top