Salus rt300rf thermostat wires

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Hi just got salus rt300rf to replace a dial thermostat. my issue is there is 3 wires to dial. one blue one brown and yellow green wire so 3 wires im not sure where yellow green one goes in the receiver.. We have a fused switch that cables come from to turn boiler on and off so boiler cables go into that then those 3 wires come from that to the thermostat any ideas
 
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Yellow & green is normally Earth but it sounds like the incorrect colour has been used in at least one terminal of your thermostat so you'll need to post a picture of the existing wiring before we can advise further
 
That is how they are in the dial thermostat..... Then those wires go to the fused switch behind the wall next to the boiler
 

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OK G/Y is Earth, Brown is permanent Live in and blue with a brown band around it is switch live out.

Your Salus isn't compatible with this as you also need a Neutral connection for it, which you don't have, so you'll need to rewire or buy something else
 
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The existing thermostat is incorrectly wired, it should also have a neutral wire connected to terminal 2. It will work however, but its accuracy won't be as good as it should be. The wires are identified as

The wire in terminal 1 is the live supply from the timeswitch / programmer
The wire in terminal 3 is the switched live to operate the heating.

At the Salus receiver:

Terminal L is the live, which should also be linked to the Salus Com terminal
Terminal NO is for the switched live

However, you also need a neutral for the Salus receiver. So you will need to pick this up from elsewhere in the heating circuit
 
Right that's unfortunate no clue how to rewire whole thing... Thanks for the quick reply tho
 
The existing thermostat is incorrectly wired, it should also have a neutral wire connected to terminal 2. It will work however, but its accuracy won't be as good as it should be. The wires are identified as

The wire in terminal 1 is the live supply from the timeswitch / programmer
The wire in terminal 3 is the switched live to operate the heating.

At the Salus receiver:

Terminal L is the live, which should also be linked to the Salus Com terminal
Terminal NO is for the switched live

However, you also need a neutral for the Salus receiver. So you will need to pick this up from elsewhere in the heating circuit
Snap :p
 
@Ashuk what was the motivation for getting the new stat? Might be able to recommend an alternative product if we know why you wanted to change what you have...
 
Looks good when we both post the same thing, it make it seem that we know what we are talking about. ;)
 
The current one is very close to the front door gets colder in there compared to everywhere else is difficult to get temp right so figured one with wireless Base unit is best
 
Actually the coolest spot is the best place for it. If you don't have any, fit TRV's to the radiators in the other rooms. That will stop those rooms overheating, and then finally when the last room to get warm, in your case the entrance hall heats up, the thermostat there switches off the boiler.

If you move the thermostat to a warmer location you run the risk of the boiler being turned off before some of the other rooms are warm enough. Hence why it should be in the last place to heat up.

The existing thermostat won't work very well, because...

The existing thermostat is incorrectly wired, it should also have a neutral wire connected to terminal 2. It will work however, but its accuracy won't be as good as it should be.

If you buy a simple replacement thermostat that is battery powered (the batteries last several years) then you won't need a neutral, and it will be a simple exchange. Here are a couple of examples.

Danfoss

Honeywell

Finally if you don't have them already, fit TRV's on the rads in the other rooms (but not the entrance hall where the room stat is) and they will keep your home comfy and save energy.
 
Thanks i understand what u r saying just as it's right where front door is it never gets very warm in that room so heating tends to switch on alot when it's not needed i may have to get someone to come fit for me eventually when I have the money lol
 
If the heating is on when not needed, just reduce the selected temperature on the dial.
 
Lol yes I have last winter I had it in lowest it would go and still clicking on all the time it clicked on below the lowest number.. It's very cold and drafty in there and just a tiny radiator.... Really could do with a new front door without glass but place is rented
 
Seems more of a common theme in new builds these days for some strange reason.

Come across a few that have them positioned right at the front door so in the winter, even if the whole house and hall is warm enough, a blast of cold air is drawn in when the door's opened and it kick starts the boiler. Once the door's shut then a few minutes later the temp stabilises and the boiler shuts off again, not very economic I don't think.
 

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