Salus wireless receiver problems

[Sam_scot]

Hi there - wondering if anyone can help...

I've got a Salus wireless thermostat (ST620RF) which isn't working. The boiler is fine (at least, it's producing hot water).

When the thermostat calls for heat, the two LEDs on the receiver flick on and off (red and blue) in alternation, and there's a repeated clicking sound (which sounds like the click which you'd normally get when the receiver successfully switches to demand heat from the boiler). It sounds worrying like a relay switch repeatedly switching on/off.

I think the controller and receiver are paired successfully - the reciever has a steady green light, and will respond (with the problematic flicking on/off described above) when the thermostat calls for heat. The receiver will also produce the same problem when switched to manual with failsafe mode switched to on.

I've tried a reset of the reciever and controller, plus re-pairing (they seemed to repair successfully). And I've tried killing the power to the receiver for a bit before a reset/re-pair.

I suspect something is quite wrong with the reciever and there's not a lot I can do to resolve it... but any suggestions or ideas would be very welcome!

Thanks in advance.

 

[Sam_scot]

A further/second question! We'll replace the boiler when replacing the kitchen next year, so I just need a quick fix. The boiler has a time clock on the front which I could happily live with instead of a thermostat for one winter (we have new-ish TRVs on the rads).

My question - can I just take the non-functioning thermostat out of the system? I'm assuming I just need to disconnect the two cables from the connector block they join in the boiler, and put in a loop across the connector block so that there's effectively no thermostat in the circuit. Is that right? The timer clock is ticking away happily so I assume it's still connected to the boiler PCB.

I'd get someone more qualified to look at it if it were complicated, but I'm perfectly happy doing bits of wiring and this seems pretty straightforward.....?

Any advice gratefully received.

 

[ianmcd]

Post a pic or which receiver you have , the box with the wires next to the boiler or post which one it is, there are more than one

 

[Sam_scot]

Thank Ian - hopefully this helps?

 

[Sam_scot]

... I think the model number is ST620RF - at least, that's what's on the instructions for both the control unit and the receiver unit on the all by the boiler. Thanks again.

 

[ianmcd]

put top selector to Man and the bottom one to on and boiler should now go on and off using the boilers onboard controls

 

[ianmcd]

If it doesnt come on setting it to manual, remove and put the two wires in NO and COM into the same terminal either one will do and the boiler will come on

 

[Sam_scot]

put top selector to Man and the bottom one to on and boiler should now go on and off using the boilers onboard controls

Thanks a lot Ian. This just repeats the flicking on/off at the receiver unfortunately. That's what makes me think the relay in the receiver has died.

If it doesnt come on setting it to manual, remove and put the two wires in NO and COM into the same terminal either one will do and the boiler will come on

Does this essentially just bypass the receiver and create a permanent complete circuit? If so - could I do the same thing by just putting a loop across the choc block the thermostat receiver is connected to in the boiler front panel? (basically replacing the loop I assume the boiler will have come with when new, before an external thermostat was added). Just seems a little easier to do it there than on the receiver?

Thanks again.

 

[ianmcd]

yes of course it is fine to do it that way, just some boilers you should be gas safe registered to do it that way, not all though

 

[Sam_scot]

Thanks. A decent reason to do it at the reciever!

Is it worth taking the receiver off mains power i.e. disconnecting the L/N? It's connected to the same fused spur that the boiler's connected to (which doesn't seem ideal in the first place...) rather than to the boiler for power.

Guess I'm keen to avoid accidentally putting 230V through the boiler PCB where I shouldn't - but if I simply put the two wires connecting the reciever to the boiler into the same terminal on the receiver (either NO or COM), and leave the receiver connected to 230V as it is currently, I'm all good?

Cheers

 

[ianmcd]

yes disconnect and safely isolate the live supply to the receiver, it will stop the relays chattering

 

[Sam_scot]

Thanks for the advice. Have removed the receiver from the mains altogether and just put the live and switched live connections to the boiler into the same terminal on the receiver back box ... all working ok. Need to get a new thermostat (and probably boiler) at some point but heating restored for now. Thanks!

 

[ianmcd]

Dont get another Salus

 

[Sam_scot]

No, I'd pretty much gathered that....

 

[ianmcd]

No, I'd pretty much gathered that....

Seriously way back a mate and myself bought 20 Salus kits between us via the Salus rep at a reduced price to try them, they went down faster than a fat kid on a see-saw, we called the rep and he gave us a number and a name for his "Top Man" I called him and told him what was happening, he asked the usual receiver positioning, distance from boiler ,micro wave fridge etc because these can affect the signal, when I said I know all this and it is a fault with the units , the one I am calling about is in a small cupboard none of the above, he then says is there an ironing board in the cupboard, I just called the rep and told him we will be removing and returning them and want a refund plus our fee for all the bother, he had the cheek to call me a few years later trying to flog me their latest range saying all the problems had been sorted out, there is not a day that passes that there is not someone on here asking about a salus setup