Samsung WW90J6610CXEU

[securespark]

This must be about 10 years old now.

Went to put it on one day and it was dead.

Checked the socket, fuse and lead continuity, as it was squashed where it was pushed back. They are all fine, so it's not a simple supply issue.

Any ideas, before I call someone?

 

[securespark]

It's 9 years old and just had a rough estimate from a repair guy who is pretty certain it is the power module. He has quoted £230.

50% rule and all that, would you bin it?

Seems a shame, but then it's not a spring chicken any more.
Having said that, it's half the age of its predecessor.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

It's 9 years old and just had a rough estimate from a repair guy who is pretty certain it is the power module. He has quoted £230.

For those who might wonder, that number traces to a washing machine..

Scrap it - never. At least not without investigating yourself. Compared to scrapping, you have nowt to lose, get it opened up, and see what you find.

Parts, if necessary - https://www.samsungspares.co.uk/ww90j6610cxeu-0000/catalogue.pl?path=125698&model_ref=14973399

 

[securespark]

Thanks, Harry.

Looking at it like that, I will dismantle it, remove the suspected part and examine it to see if it shows signs of distress.

The only thing stopping me is that if I buy the replacement part, replace it and it still doesn't work, then, I'll be dang annoyed.

OTOH, I can't really see what else it could be.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

OTOH, I can't really see what else it could be.

Input mains filter, is always a good place to start.

 

[securespark]

My electronics from college is rusty.

From memory the mains filter on that machine is a "noise" filter.

If they fail, does that prevent "pass-through"?

If so, a quick check for voltage on the outgoing terms should show one way or the other.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If they fail, does that prevent "pass-through"?

They can go open circuit, on the coils. Look for the simple faults first.

 

[securespark]

So, a quick continuity test between live in, live out and neutral in, neutral out then.

 

[securespark]

Got continuity through the noise filter.

Also got live continuity at the this point on the power board at the number 2 connector (blue conductor).

There were 2 screws missing holding the panel in, but the machine has never been apart since it left the factory. ???

Just wondering what to do now, because I'm not trained in this stuff, if I buy a new board and it still doesn't work, I'm up the creek.

 

[securespark]

There's another connector on the other side of the board with thick white and blue conductors. The white has continuity with the neutral pin on the plug.
The blue does not have continuity with the live pin on the plug or the blue on the other connector in my last post.

BUT

The blue on the other connector (labelled number 2 in the photo does have continuity with the live pin on the plug.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The blue on the other connector (labelled number 2 in the photo does have continuity with the live pin on the plug.

I would expect the blue to perhaps be the negative, red to be the live. In which case, check both the live pin on the plug, for continuity, through to the terminal on the PCB, likewise check the negative through to the PCB.

Then your next test, would be to check that the 240v, is available at the actual pcb, once all plugged in, and the washer switched on.

 

[securespark]

So, to summarise (see photo below), there is live (blue) coming in on the left hand side of the power module along with a red conductor, and neutral (white) coming in on the right hand side along with a blue conductor.

Now, rookie me took the blue and white on the RHS to be the power in from the noise filter, but the loom splits off where the filter is and goes down, so maybe that blue comes into the power module from somewhere else.

This is fast getting out of my league and I think it's a bit of a gamble for a rookie to splash out on a new power module to fix a 9 year old machine.

Don't want to throw good money after bad.

What say you?

 

[securespark]

I now think (although I can't pull the machine out to verify) that the blue on the RHS could be the live feed to the motor.

Could try and find a schematic, I suppose. But that still doesn't solve the "will replacing the power module fix the machine and if so, is it worth it for a 9 year old machine?" conundrum...

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

So, to summarise (see photo below), there is live (blue) coming in on the left hand side of the power module along with a red conductor, and neutral (white) coming in on the right hand side along with a blue conductor.

Only the thick red and blue wires appear relevant to me, the white wire appears to be a low power, or maybe control wires.

Thick wires, suggest they are the mains supply for the entire machine. To get the machine to work, it must have both the live, and the neutral appearing at the PCB.

 

[securespark]

Sorry, my wording misled you. By left and right, see below. I have circled the two pairs of thick conductors attached to the module.

The blue on the left has continuity with the live plug pin and the white on the right has continuity with the neutral plug pin.