Samsung WW90J6610CXEU

[securespark]

The machine does not have a latching on/off button.

So I can derive a live feed from the terminals on either side of the board, but pressing the on/ off button does nothing.

Edit: Sorry, that's confusing again, please read below.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

It does sound as if it's the pcb which has failed, but I just cannot be sure, from your tests, without hands-on.

It's gamble, maybe worth seeking out a cheap, second hand board to try.

 

[securespark]

I've done a bit more.

Here's a picture of what the two pairs of connectors circled in my photo are connected to. In each case, it's the same unit. Looking it up, it's a relay.

So, having double-checked the feed on those two pairs of connectors, the left hand blue is live and the white is neutral. And doing a live check for voltage gives a reading of 237V between the two.

Now, a relay needs a feed to it, so I'm a bit perplexed, but as I said, my electronics is muchly rusty.

Can't find a schematic for it.

 

[securespark]

It does sound as if it's the pcb which has failed, but I just cannot be sure, from your tests, without hands-on.

It's gamble, maybe worth seeking out a cheap, second hand board to try.

Ebay has refurbed boards 80 quid plus 5 p+p and you send yours back, so there's another fiver.

That's the cheapest I can find.

 

[securespark]

Voltage between blue and white on RHS is 20V.

Blue on RHS and blue on LHS is 31V.

Blue on RHS and red is 0V.

White and red is 138V.

Blue on LHS and red is 51V.

And as I have said, white on the RHS and Blue on the LHS is 237V.

 

[securespark]

Taken it out of the machine now and found a bulging cap. The small one.

Don't know if that could cause the module to go rogue.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Taken it out of the machine now and found a bulging cap. The small one.

Don't know if that could cause the module to go rogue.

That could be it!. Are you able to replace that cap?

Same voltage rating, or higher is fine, but the same uF.

I would also check the continuity through that fuse - it looks suspect (bottom of the photo).



It looks as if it's part of the power supply, which powers the pcb, no power no lights.

 

[securespark]

Middle lad spent half an hour looking for a schematic, couldn't find one. He suggested getting in touch with Samsung online just to see how much a repair call would be.

I did that. As part of the process, it said,

If your washing machine does not work at all, it could be in demo mode. Press TEMP and OPTIONS and hold for at least 10 seconds to reset.

Well, I did that.... And nothing happened.

Then, as an afterthought, I pushed the on/ off button.

So, this will be a great reference for anyone with a Samsung WM that is stone cold brown bread!

Rather than spending the best part of a whole day dismantling, testing and reassembling the beggar, try the reset method above first!

 

[securespark]

But how the heck it got into demo mode, God only knows!

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

But how the heck it got into demo mode, God only knows!

..and what was it demonstrating?

Despite it now being back in life, I would look at replacing that bulging cap..

 

[securespark]

It'll be pain in the arse...

The whole board is smothered in some kind of hard, waterproof substance.

I can see in this instance why they sell the thing as one unit. Although they do get refurbed I'm not sure it's a DIY job.

Thanks for all your help, Harry.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The whole board is smothered in some kind of hard, waterproof substance.

Wait until it fails completely, then.

If you are completely unable to get through that coating, I would settle for, snipping that cap away, enough to expose its wires, then tack solder a new cap on the wires.

 

[securespark]

Thanks, good shout.

It's an electrolytic one, I think, so need to get the polarity correct!