Sash window stripping : wood to stone bonding, wood to lead

[rideforever]

Hi
I am going to renew the outside of bay window and just to check I have the steps right.

Using a heatgun I am going to strip off all the paint, then with woodfiller fill everything, sand down using 3 grades, primer + 3 top coats.

Things I am less about is :

1. at the bottom the leadwork is ugly but I think I will leave it as is - I have read discussions to that effect on diynot

2. at the bottom of the uprights the lead is tacked into the wood. So do I need to caulk that area with decorators caulk ? Or wood filler ?

3. on the sides of the frames there is an interface wood to masonry > is that caulked as well ?

4. the window itself, the lower edge is not soft or anything but it is worn and not a straight edge ... should I just woodfill that and sand it ?

5. is woodfiller or resin repair epoxy better - is there much difference ?

Cheers

Untitled

• rideforever
• 17 May 2014
• 1

Untitled

• rideforever
• 17 May 2014
• 1

 

[opps]

Primer plus 3 top coats?

Not sure which system you are planning on using.

Personally I would use something like the Dulux Trade Weathershield system. Applying the primer, followed by two coats of under coat and then 2 coats of gloss.

I am not a fan of arbitrarily burning off paint. Sure, burn it off where the paint has flaked all the way back to the wood but in all other cases I would use a decent random orbital sander, initially with 80 grit paper. IMO if 100 year old paint is still sound but the more recent coats have flaked then leave the old stuff alone and just feather out or 2 pack resin fill to fill as required.

Re question 2- Don't use decorators caulk in this case, the lead will get hotter than the wood in the summer and might fail. A product like CT1 might be better (but more expensive, one tube at £10ish should suffice). You will also be able to use it where the timber meets the brick work (Q3)

Question 4- I guess that you mean the opening lower centre sash, the others look like that have been painted shut. If the imperfections are fairly slight then 2 pack, AKA styrene resin filler, AKA 2k car filler will suffice. I am not sure what you mean when you say resin repair epoxy. There is a class of fillers that are technically known as epoxy resin but they are different to the car filler type (styrene resin) fillers. I know a number of sash window restorers that use them for gluing sections of wood when splicing rotten sashes. The products can be used as general filler but tend to be very expensive

 

[rideforever]

Thanks for the considerable advice.

Can I get CT1 in Wickes ? I will try.

Interesting what you say about leaving the old paint on in good areas - I was wondering about that.

If I leave the top half of the uprights paint on and the bottom half burn back to wood, and feather it in ... should I also say sand down the top half a bit and then paint the entire upright in the same fashion : primer + 2uc + 2tc ?

Or should I just paint the bottom half and the feathered area ?

 

[sparkwright]

I would be tempted not to strip everything, certainly make sure all loose stuff is scraped off well and feathered out nicely.

Sometimes life is too short for stripping lots and lots of paint - you only have to look at houses where a DIYer has started stripping the downstairs windows and never got round to the upstairs ones!

 

[rideforever]

That sounds good ... but how do apply the paint, just over the stripped and feather sections ... or do I extend the new paint over the unstripped sections. Or do I lightly sand the unstripped sections and paint the whole lot ?

 

[sparkwright]

You prime any bare wood after a good sanding all over. Before priming treat any knots with knotting solution.

I find aluminium primer has good results on wood.

 

[rideforever]

Okay, so you are saying that I should paint over all the wood, even the parts that I don't strip down the wood.

 

[opps]

Wickes won't sell CT1. TBH I avoid sheds and use decorators merchants.

CT1 is a class of mastics/caulks that remain as flexible as silicone but can be over painted. It is very sticky, so have a tub of decorators wipes handy.

the dulux trade weathershield primer is basically a wood preservative. Apply it where needed, spot undercoat the area and then one UC (or 2) over all the wood work. I then apply 2 gloss, one is sufficient but I prefer the depth of 2. Importantly, apply the second gloss within a week of the first, otherwise you will need to key it.

If you are working on a hot day add some owatrol to maintain a wet edge, you can also add terebene to speed curing times (oil based paints only for both products)