Saunier duval boiler does not fire.

Tony you are correct.

Just to satisfy my self, I have been to nearest shop and got APS for £68
and replaced it. I am not sure whether I connected correctly. It has got two outlet to it to connect transparent pipes and 3 terminals 1,2,3 for electrics.

Look like on the new APS,when all the electrics are connected to terminals and one transparent pipe to one outlet(i do not know whether to connect to pipe 1 or pipe 2) and blow air into it, then the burners start firing.
But, once the boiler reaches the temperature, the burners goes off and it wont come up.Then Again I have to blow the air into the APS, the burner starts firing till it atains the set temperature on the dial and cuts off.

so the APS is not the problem.Can you please guide me where to look for venturi?

Many thanks
 
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Hi Tony

Can you please guide me, where to look for venturi cleaning in the system.Or link me to literature if you can.Before I take a decision to change the boiler, I want to do this cleaning as advised.

Thanks
 
The venturi is at the flue end of the APS tube!

Its very delicate and gets blocked with hairs or fluff or small leaves.

Whatever happened to the CORGI fellow who as I predicted thought it was the APS ( wrongly ! ).

Tony
 
Agile said:
The venturi is at the flue end of the APS tube!

Its very delicate and gets blocked with hairs or fluff or small leaves.

Whatever happened to the CORGI fellow who as I predicted thought it was the APS ( wrongly ! ).

Tony

Tony...

I always thought that you did not encourage non Corgi people to work on gas appliances.

It looks to me that is just what you are doing.

:rolleyes:
 
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I never encouraged him. He replaced the APS off his own bat.

He said he had a CORGI come to it and wrongly diagnose the fault. In spite of my question he has not told us what has happened to that CORGI ( or the egg hoppers either! ).

As he has already replaced the APS then cleaning the venturi is not any more risky. I have not told him how to clean it, only where he is likely to find it.

I never encourage anyone to do anything that they are clearly not competent to do and particularly when gas safety is involved. It greatly saddens me when people act irresponsibly from behind an anonymous screen name.

Tony
 
Hi ALL specially Tony,

The latest update I thought to share with you all.

Further to the APS i bought in the morning, I tried fitting it and could susceed to fire the burners after blowing air into the APS tube, but could not keep the fire to come up after the thermostat cutout. I have to blow air into the aps tube again, to light the burners.

I struggled the whole day with different things cleaned, but no joy.I ended up calling the corgi guy.(In the process i cleaned venturi with out knowing, Tony was refering to that tiny white part)

(By now I certainly know that the old pump was working well, as it was doing similar function and bearing in mind Mr.Tony's comments)

The corgi guy came in and fiddled the new pump here and there and ended up with the same results what I explored. Then his mind struck on the front panel to be replaced, so that there can be a vaccum or air pressure which will act upon the APS pipe.

He put every thing back, APS connected to electricals, one end of the APS air inlet through the pipe to venturi which is near the flute section, then put the front panel against the rubber seal tightly. Hear it goes ...the burners started firing and .....till now no complaints.I asked to show me the old APS, which he repeatedly avoided and said, is left in his van and is not important now(which means he nicked a good part as bonus with his fee.

I spent £150 just because I did not put the front panel back on before switching the system on.

Now I have put the system on heating continuous, just to get hot water. And he said this is because the diverter valve is gone and replacing is not sugestable. Only remedy is to change the boiler to new :oops:

Warm regards( warmer than my boiler) to all of you.

My diverter valve seems to be not working, hence heating is ON, to get the hotwater.(I dont know to what extent this is true)
 
It may be the diverter valve or more likely the flow switch diaphragm. I would not recommend replacing it but the part is about £70. Its a lot of work involved in fitting it.

If you want to stop having central heating making the rads warm you could either turn them off individually or risk turning off one of the isolating valves under the boiler.

By the way, I want to make it clear that I do not work on Saunier Duval boilers and view them as one of the worst boilers ever sold and apalling their Company policy of charging a premium rate for telephone calls to their technical help line to listen to waiting music followed by often incorrect advice after a long and expensive wait.

Tony
 
The domestic diaphragm is likely to be holed - genuine kit of parts less than £20.00

Easy job if there's a reasonable gap beneath the boiler - any competent engineer will take less than an hour.
 
Thanks Tony,

I can assure you all, I have attempted to install the APS only after the corgi guy uninstalled it in front of me.So putting the new one was not much of a task.

Saftey was the priority and I attended this, when no one was at home and all mains gas, water, electrics turned off.

I will come back for your help when the diverter valve challenges me.( ofcourse I will do this before i decide to dump the boiler).

Cheers

GAnesh
 
Now looking at the messages, I can see diverter valve is inviting me to finger it( sorry finger-I mean in good sense).

Just can you confirm should I look for the diaphram to be replaced or the complete valve? If its 20 quid.I will take a chance.
 
"Agile" said:
and apalling their Company policy of charging a premium rate for telephone calls to their technical help line
No they dont - haven't for years.

Problem with some SD-s can be that you touch one part and the next bit leaks, so some spare O rings can be useful, and some spare time.
 
The £70 block is the whole assembly which is the only part that I would fit if I worked on those aweful boilers.

I would not recommend that job to a professional because of the problem of everything leaking. Consequently I dont see it as a sensible DIY job.

Its true that S-D no longer charge a premium rate but they did for a very long time and I am still not recommending their boilers based on their past history of poor quality products and premium rate numbers.

Tony
 
The water valve containing the diaphragm is completely seperate from the diverter (known as the reversiing valve).

As I said the arch kit is less than £20.00.

Take the top section (with the microswitches) off the reversing valve (the part with the lever). Turn on the hot tap and see if the pin at the back moves. If not the diaphragm is holed.

If the boiler is old or has cooked they are more prone to leaks and the plastic components can become brittle.

Its a straightforward job for a pro but requires a lot of patience and a good back, anything less than 300mm clearance below the boiler and its a struggle.
 

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