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Screwed chipboard flooring or something else

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Hello

My converted loft is L shaped and the main area has T&G chipboard flooring. The remainder, done at at later time was done with 20mm T&G pine floorboards.

Part of both floors has had to come up for renovation work. The chipboard area has been cut and screwed back down on noggings. Trying to get the pine T&G back is a nightmare. It’s been on a south facing elevation and had a good blast of sun so I suspect the T&G kept it together, but now it’s been ´released’ it doesn’t want to know and I’m thinking about getting rid and starting from scratch.

It’s not a room that will get lots of use and I’m thinking of putting in a decent laminate.

The joists are 9x3 at 45 centres so my question is what kind of sub floor should I put in.

I don’t like chipboard but if I used it I would want the least hassle getting access in the future so would prefer to screw it and not glue it. (I know there are mixed opinions). I’ve read to use lots of screws to minimise creaking. (I’ll use click and lock laminate too).

I’ve also read that OSB resists expansion better but is more expensive.

Would both material require noggings at the joins?

It’s proving to be a distraction from the main renovation so I just want it done asap so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Actually, having checked the price locally, square edged OSB is only £1per sq m more expensive than T&G chipboard. But he says people go for chipboard not OSB. Why would that be?

As there's already noggings across the joists would it make most sense to get square edge OSB and cut to the nogging/joist positions? Thanks
 
Last edited:
So for anyone interested, I've decided to go for 22mm chipboard. Price wise OSB was slightly more expensive but I settled on chipboard because I read it has a finer grain which makes the T&G joints tighter. It's P5 because that's all that my local merchant stocks.

450mm joists is the maximum for 18mm thickness so that might have been okay but for the difference in cost I figured 22mm would feel more solid.

When it gets laid I’m thinking of preparing hatches around where I might want access and glue the rest.
 
So the boards (Kronoboard) have been delivered and I've left them in the room ready to start next week. I read that there needs to be a 10mm expansion gap all round but posters have said 5mm will do. Krono, however, say 12mm. I know I should probably follow the manufacturer instructions but is there a general consensus? Thanks
 
Follow manufacturer instructions. Not sure I'd bother with noggins for T&G if staggering the short edge glued joints and overlaying with laminate but no harm adding them
 

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