Screws for timber framing

[Jupiter01]

I am looking to construct a partition wall that will be lined with plasterboard. It is not load bearing and I will be using the 38x63 timbers.

Can you please recommend screw length and type for this please.

Thanks in advance.

 

[^woody^]

75 x 4mm.

 

[Jupiter01]

Any particular brand or thread type that you recommend?

Also, are there any issues with using CLS timber outdoors for a small lean to shed I need to build? It will be featheredged on top.

 

[^woody^]

Any wood screw will do.

You may want to treat the cls with a preservative, at the minimum the end gains of each cut piece should be given a good soak.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Are you extending your HMO to have another bedroom?

Andy

 

[Jupiter01]

Are you extending your HMO to have another bedroom?

Andy

Huh?

 

[Jupiter01]

On this, should I use single or double thread screws? Please let me know if there are any other recommendations. Thanks again.

 

[robinbanks]

I can't work out what you want to use these screws for; the framing or holding the plasterboards on?

 

[Jupiter01]

I can't work out what you want to use these screws for; the framing or holding the plasterboards on?

It’s for the timber framing. I’ve noted the recommended length.
I then have choices of brands, single/double thread, some that have no thread for some of the screw. Unsure on what is recommended for this type of usage.

Also, I assume it’s drywall screws for the plasterboard fixing to the studwork?

Thanks again.

 

[^woody^]

A wood screw is a wood screw. Just buy any wood screw for the frame, and any plasterboard screw for the boards.

 

[robinbanks]

It’s for the timber framing

Scrwfix turbo coach 90mm

some that have no thread for some of the screw.

Shanked screws pull the thing being held tight to the thing being held to.

Screws that are fully threaded don't do this unless they're pilot drilled or driven deep enough that only a few threads bite the thing being held

Single thread drive in more slowly but grip better as the threads tend to be deeper. Doesn't matter so much in this day and age of cordless drivers. For plasterboard screws you want single, coarse thread. Twin fine threads are more for metal studding

Main thing for screws is you appreciate that a Philips and a Pozi are both shaped like a + plus but are subtly different shapes and you should use the correct bit with each. Using the wrong bit in either ruins the screws and bits because they don't fit each other properly

Plasterboard screws tend to be Philips, wood screws tend to be pozi. The ones I recommended above are an 8mm hex nut.

If a joiner was doing this they'd probably use a framing nailer and ringed nails; you can hire one if you feel competent enough but nailers are a lot more dangerous and less versatile than a good cordless driver and screws. You don't get any warning if you're nailing a timber you're holding and have misjudged how far into the wood the nail will go; the nail appears through the back of your hand, having entered through the palm, before you can say "ow". With a screwdriver you have time to move your hand way before it breaks much more than the skin of your palm if you accidentally hold the side of the wood where the screw breaks out

 

[Jupiter01]

Scrwfix turbo coach 90mm

These have flanges. In places, the screws need to be flush with the timber. Do I need to use a spade bit there?
Wanted to check if I’m looking at the right thing.

Thanks for your detailed (and graphic) response earlier.

 

[robinbanks]

You'll be framing in soft wood; don't worry, they will countersink themselves if you want them to, unless you drive them in starting in the middle of a knot

Not sure how much framing you'll be doing but your equal cost point for a cordless framing nailer vs those screws is about 5000 fixings.