Stud wall screw choice?

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Hi guys,

Going to build a stud/partition wall this weekend using 47x75mm timber for the frame. 2 questions if you don't mind:

1. What are the preferrable screws to use? Went to B&Q yesterday and there were hundreds of options. Obviously wood screws, self tapping, but what dimensions? I would imagine for 47mm wide timber, I'd use 100mm screws?

2. Should I drill pilot holes? If so should these be just a fraction smaller than the screws?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Thanks that's great. What dimensions though. That's my main unknown right now?
 
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Depends how handy you are with a drill driver really, and how much time you've got. I would have thought most people doing their own work wouldn't mind spending the extra time to pilot drill. Size of the pilot depends? If the screw has a bare shank pilot the same size as the shank or a tad smaller. If the screw is fully threaded you need to go a fraction bigger otherwise the screw will suspend the timber and won't pull it together quite so well.

Any of the fast thread screws will be good. 100mm is about the right length.
 
Sorry guys, tryign not to ask too many little questions, but again the length of the screw is fine and I'll prob go for 100mm, but it the other measurement that confused me (guess it's the width)?

Any suggestions, or is it not soo important?
 
You don't want them too thick. I'd go for 4mm.
 
Anything bigger tham 4.5mm will probably want a pilot in smaller timbers. Turbogolds don't come in 4.5x100, though. Not sure I've ever seen a 4x100 or 4.5x100 screw.
 
Surely all you builders build stud walls all the time? :p

What size srews do you use? 100*4 or 5 wood screw is what I will look for.
 
All the timber stud walls I have taken down have been held together by 4" round wire nails so that must be what the builders use.

I tend to use 3" or 4" size 10 wioodscrews, clearance hole in one piece, pilot hole in the other, My feeble driver won't put them in without a pilot hole - the mains drill will but it is a bit difficult to control driving screws.
 
All the timber stud walls I have taken down have been held together by 4" round wire nails so that must be what the builders use.

And that's why you end up having to take the stud walls down ;)

In seriousness, glad to see everyone is using screws for their stud walls - every bit of stud wall I've ever removed was built with nails, and you could feel the play in the studs and noggins. Much more solid if you screw it together, and with screws being so cheap nowadays it makes little sense to use nails.

OP, remember to attach your footer and header plates to joists. If that's not possible, insert noggins between the floor and/or ceiling joists as required, and attach to these. Structurally-speaking it is slightly less important with your end studs, but it is still a good idea to get a good anchor onto the other walls. If butting up to masonry, I use frame fixings.

Use clamps (or cramps!) to hold each stud in place, level and true, before driving in the screws: It will take twice as long than just holding in place, but if you're working alone it will ensure every stud is true.
 
All the timber stud walls I have taken down have been held together by 4" round wire nails so that must be what the builders use.

And that's why you end up having to take the stud walls down ;)

In seriousness, glad to see everyone is using screws for their stud walls - every bit of stud wall I've ever removed was built with nails, and you could feel the play in the studs and noggins. Much more solid if you screw it together, and with screws being so cheap nowadays it makes little sense to use nails.

Screw and glue with sash cramps, works wonders. Might take longer, but the satisfaction of doing it right, the first time, is worth it.
 

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