SDS drill question

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Hi guys, I need to buy an SDS drill specifically for a couple of small projects. 1) Putting shelves up in a concrete walled garage, 2) fitting wooden posts to a masonry sided patio. 3) Making holes in a concrete flag so as to bolt something onto it. Checking out the deals at Screwfix, There is one at under 50 quid, which gets decent reviews, but, at 850w - is it powerful enough to do what I want, or do I need the next one up (1500) ? As mentioned, it's specifically for these projects and I wont be neededing it for demolition tasks or anything too demanding!

Here's the one in question.Many thanks in advance for any help.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/energer-enb465drh-corded-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/63303
 
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And if you don't need it afterwards they have good returns policy.
 
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With SDS driils bigger isn't always better. Most industrial rated 2kg and 3kg SDS drills are in the 550 to 850 watts simply because there is no need for them to be any more powerful (the real drilling power comes from the efficiency of the pneumatic hammer mechanism) and when the weight of an SDS goes much above 3 to 3.5kg they become difficult to control and very tiring to use for horizontal or vertical into ceiling drilling ( there are such things as concrete lintels and ceilings). Personally I wouldn't have one of those 1500 watt porkers if you were giving them away

Comments based on 30 odd years trade drilling with SDS drills
 
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Thanks for that. I guess I just need to know that it will go right through a concrete flag without cracking it. Assumed that power/ speed would help that. Same goes for drilling into my garage wall. Its made of concrete slabs and I dont want it cracking!
 
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The most significant figure for breaking and drilling (other than overall weight) is the impact strength, which is expressed in Joules. Having an SDS which is too powerful for the job at hand can sometimes be a disadvantage, but the killer for me is weight as a lot of my drilling is at shoulder height or above. Hence my comments above
 
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I would've thought for the small jobs mentioned in your post you would get away with a plain hammer drill?
 
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SammyInnit

I would've thought for the small jobs mentioned in your post you would get away with a plain hammer drill?

No good for structural concrete such as for lintels or bison beams. When you're in trade you quickly realise they're not really up to prolonged use for anything other than basic masonry and it will take its toll on your combi drill.

I have combi drills because they're built to be as robust as possible but I still carry my rotary hammer with me everywhere.
 
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Any cheap sds will be fine for the OP's tasks. And DIY generally.
 
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Thanks again guys. Have another question on this. My (yet to be delivered) garage is a stadard concrete sheeted garage. Think it's about 300mm thick. I need to insulate the garage (turning it into an office) so need to board it out. Firstly, need to fix batons to the walls. As the walls are pretty thin, how do I afix the batons on there? I was thinking about drilling holes right through and bolting the batons on? Or, can it be plugged with short plugs?
 
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you could glue the battens on with mastic, like "sticks like shxt"
 
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SammyInnit

Thanks again guys. Have another question on this. My (yet to be delivered) garage is a stadard concrete sheeted garage. Think it's about 300mm thick. I need to insulate the garage (turning it into an office) so need to board it out. Firstly, need to fix batons to the walls. As the walls are pretty thin, how do I afix the batons on there? I was thinking about drilling holes right through and bolting the batons on? Or, can it be plugged with short plugs?

Just look for nylon hammerfix to suit the depth of your barons and concrete .
 
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Just look for nylon hammerfix to suit the depth of your barons and concrete .

Hmm, yes, first time I've seen those. Looks good. Just found the garage spec and the concrete walls are actually 70mm thick. So more purchase on there than I thought.
 
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