second soil pipe

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i am installing a second bathroom for which i will need to add a second soil pipe appox 12 feet along from the first one, is it just a case of adding a tee junction and extending the existing underground pipe along and then up to the new bathroom.
also is it best to work from the bathroom end and work back ,any tips greatly appreciated

thanks in advance

dave
 
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Yes you can add a tee-juntion but you have to work out when the last pipe goes in to make life easier.Best to work from existing bath to new bath and if it on the same floor level make sure you got a fall ratio approx 1:40.Can you not connect to the upright soil vent pipe instead of going underground.(Not sure if I read it right!)
 
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what i mean is i cannot connect in to the existing soil pipe i will have to have a new soil pipe approx 12feet along from the first one run it down the wall and then underground and connect with a tee junction into the existing one
 
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Are you saying that your existing soil pipe is not on the same wall for your new soil pipe?
 
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the existing soil pipe is on the same wall , what i am trying to do is have a second soil pipe appox 12 feet further along the wall from the first but would like to connect it to the pipe underground that runs from the first one by adding a tee junction
 
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Can you not connect it together instead of going underground ? To put a tee-piece in underground pipe will require a large section of pipe to lift to put in your tee-piece in unless it is vertical position.
 

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YOU CAN TEE YOUR NEW DRAIN PIPE INTO THE OLD DRAIN PIE BUT IT WILL NOT BE THAT EASY, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE A SWEPT AND HAVE PLENTY OF PLAY ON THE EXISTING DRAIN, CANT YOU GO DIRECT TO THE MANHOLE?
 
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what is a swept? i have had a look at the man hole and yes i can go directly to the man hole,
i see what you mean about getting a tee on the original pipe ,also are there regulations on how much fall should be on the pipe and is it ok to lay the pipe directly on to the soil or do i have to put sand or somthing do
down first

cheers dave
 
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Imagine a 'T', now take the 'I' off and substitute an inverted 'J', thats a swept.
And I believe you lay it in sand to take any settlement out of the equation, (sand don't shift when packed down, use builders sand).
 
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Pea shingles + Sand + Pipe to bedded on. Fall ratio approx 1:40
 
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Paving block bedding sand or sharp sand is also stable.Possibly cheaper than the pea shingle.
Builders sand becomes fluid when loaded with water.
 
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i have had the lid off the inspection chamber and the existing soil pipe exits the chamber has a slight bend in it then a straight run to the soil stack the length of pipe is approx two metres, the only way i think i can do this is to fit a y piece into the existing underground pipe and then it will be a straight run to the new soil pipe all the other outlets from the chamber go off at the wrong angle and would mean several bends to get it to were i need it,are there any rules as to how long the underground pipe can be it would be seven metres from the inspection chamber,i know i should have asked this first but am i supposed to obtain some kind of permission to do this work, i apologise if some of these questions seem like common sense but although i do lots of diy i have never messed with drains.

many thanks dave
 
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Less bend as possible the better the water flow.Doesn't matter how long the pipe is as long you got fall ratio approx 1:40.

Not sure about permission but if your drains is connected to others property and anything go wrong you could be in trouble with your neighbours.
 
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not sure how to work out the fall rate 1:40 does that mean for every metre the fall is four centimetres . the depth of the pipe exiting the inspection chamber is 340mm and the length of pipe needs to be 7 metres long which would mean at the soil pipe end it would be only 60mm below the ground. also that is the deapest pipe exiting the inspection chamber .
 
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