Securing Aquapanel & Priming WBP

[Tel77]

I've decided to take out the plasterboard wall that was originally behind the old shower and replace with Wickes's Aquapanel rather than try and waterproof the old plasterboard but have noticed that the aquapanel is obviously more heavy duty.

What is the best way of securing it to a wooden stud framework? I was planning to use conventional plasterboard screws but I thought I'd check to see if anyone knows if this can/should be done?

I'm also going to overboard the floor with 12mm WBP and now know that I need to prime the back and edges of the board.
Can anyone recommend a product to do this? I'm probably going to use BAL products due to their reputation but as they have so many choices I thought I'd ask what other people have used in the past.

 

[cantaloup63]

The aquapanel has special screws designed for it. I'd strongly advise drilling small pilot holes for each screw too since it can be blooming difficult to get even a purpose designed screw to start going through.

 

[Tel77]

Damn, wish I'd seen your reply sooner cantaloup63. I fitted the panels last night using normal plasterboard screws so looks like I may need to change them.

I didn't have any trouble getting them through though.

 

[Richard C]

Damn, wish I'd seen your reply sooner cantaloup63. I fitted the panels last night using normal plasterboard screws so looks like I may need to change them.

The Aqp screws are ridiculously over priced but don’t worry about the plasterboard screws, I always use them & they’ll be fine. Fill & tape the panel joints, avoid the panel joints & tile grout lines coinciding as far as is possible.

What type of floor are you over boarding? What size & type of tiles are you laying both floor & wall?

For priming the underside & edges of the ply use:
http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/bond-sbr
Apply undiluted.

 

[Tel77]

Thanks for that, I was in 2 minds about the screws so feel a bit more confident to leave as is now.

The WBP is going on top of 25mm moisture resistant chipboard which doesn't seem to have any flex in it so hopefully either 12mm or 18mm WBP should give it even more strength.

From memory I think the tiles are approx 300mm x about 500mm so fairly large.

 

[Richard C]

Are you sure the chip is 25mm? 18mm is more the norm. Personally I wouldn’t over board chipboard, its crap & the worst possible tile base you can imagine. I would opt to replace it with 18-25mm WBP, actual thickness depends on your floor joist size/pitch/span; also avoids a ridiculous door step size threshold. You will need a very flat floor for tiles that size & a large format trowel.

Are you using the same size tiles on the wall? What type of tiles are they, porcelain, ceramic stone?

 

[Tel77]

I'm 100% about it being 25mm as i've had to cut a hole through to be able to move a waste pipe and took the oppurtunity to measure it then.

I realise that replacing the flooring is the best scenario but not really feasable without disturbing multilple rooms so looks like I'll have to compromise and overboard.

I'm planning to use the same tiles on the walls also which I realise are quite heavy but hopefully if I get the wall prep right and use the right adhesive then they should cope?
As far as i know they are porcelain(as that's what's on the invoice) but they have yet to be delivered.

 

[Richard C]

I realise that replacing the flooring is the best scenario but not really feasable without disturbing multilple rooms

Why would replacing the chip disturb other rooms?

so looks like I'll have to compromise and overboard.

If you do decide to go with it, make sure the original floor is well fixed down using additional screws. Screw fix the ply every 200mm through into the joists not just into the top of the chip; watch pipes & cables. Lay the boards so any edges are fully supported over the centre line of a joist; avoid unsupported cross joist joints in traffic areas or down the center of the room. Reinforce the joints with tape.

I'm planning to use the same tiles on the walls also which I realise are quite heavy but hopefully if I get the wall prep right and use the right adhesive then they should cope?
As far as i know they are porcelain(as that's what's on the invoice) but they have yet to be delivered.

Aquapanel will take 50 kg/sqm so you should be more than OK but double check your tile weight/sqm. Are they glazed or polished porcelain? Polished porc needs sealing but some come pre-sealed, check with supplier or do a water test; what colour are they?

Use quality trade flexible powder cement only for both floor & walls, cheap own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap. Do not prime the Aquapanel or ply tile face.

 

[Tel77]

It looks like some of the flooring goes past the threshold as the door is at an angle so i'm really keen to avoid disturbing the carpets and flooring in the bedroom. It also looks like some of the floor panels are tucked quite far underneath the bottom of the wall/plasterboard.

I'll make sure that there are lots of screws in place and have already marked out where the joists are so I can make sure the edges are supported.
I believe the tiles to be glazed but will need to double check as to whether they are pre-sealed. They are beige in colour so was planning to use white adhesive with white grout on walls and possibly grey on the floor so that it doesn't look grubby quickly.

I'm planning to use Bal single part flexible due to the longer pot life as I'm not the quickest and would rather have the extra time to make sure i'm 100% happy with the fitting.

Will I still need to use any aditive with the adhesive or just with the grout?

 

[Richard C]

It looks like some of the flooring goes past the threshold as the door is at an angle so i'm really keen to avoid disturbing the carpets and flooring in the bedroom. It also looks like some of the floor panels are tucked quite far underneath the bottom of the wall/plasterboard.

With the right saw you can just cut around the perimeter of the room & stick some noggins under unsupported edges.

I believe the tiles to be glazed but will need to double check as to whether they are pre-sealed. They are beige in colour so was planning to use white adhesive with white grout on walls and possibly grey on the floor so that it doesn't look grubby quickly.

If they are glazed, you can use standard grey adhesive (bit cheaper); otherwise use white. Don’t use white grout on floors, it will look rather grotty after a short while. I think grey grout looks fine with beige, I have it in my own bath & shower rooms.

I'm planning to use Bal single part flexible due to the longer pot life as I'm not the quickest and would rather have the extra time to make sure i'm 100% happy with the fitting. Will I still need to use any aditive with the adhesive or just with the grout?

SPF is fine, leave a minimum 16 hours before grouting. You don’t need any additive in the adhesive or grout; for grout use Superflex wide joint http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/products/superflex-wide-joint minimum tile spacing 4mm. For the floor use a large format trowel - 20mm round notches, 13mm deep, at 28mm centres but you will get away with a thick bed trowel on the walls as long as they are flat - 20mm round notches, 10mm deep, at 28mm centres.

 

[Geps]

Aquapanel will take 50 kg/sqm so you should be more than OK but double check your tile weight/sqm. Are they glazed or polished porcelain? Polished porc needs sealing but some come pre-sealed, check with supplier or do a water test; what colour are they?

Sorry the brief hijack - I too am about to start retiling my bathroom with the same size and type tile.

If the tiles aren't sealed do you seal before or after tiling?

Cheers,

 

[Richard C]

If the tiles aren't sealed do you seal before or after tiling?

seal/grout/seal.

Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1443663#1443663#ixzz1dhnsLBKa

If your tiles are not glazed, seal them but only sparingly as too much sealer can leave a sticky mess on the tiles, also check the tiles for signs of wax, thjis is put on to stop staining in transit, the wax needs to be thoroughly taken off before sealing or the sealer wont work properly.

Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1700591#1700591#ixzz1dhmuwDTJ

 

[Geps]

Thanks Richard although still a little confused.....is the cleaning/sealing done before or after they're stuck to the wall?

Ie should I be taking them all out the packaging and cleaning before laying?

 

[Tel77]

Thanks for the tips/advice so far.

Just had a thought and wondered if I need to tank the aquapanel before installing the shower tray?

 

[dhutch]

Presuably if fitting to a exterior (brick) wall you can just use plasterboard adheasive as before? or would need diffrent adheasive?