Securing/strengthening an outbuilding door

[MisterBoy]

My garage has a back door with a proper lock but I've noticed the door itself has a lot of play - even a gently nudge at the bottom corner can move it and I think one good shove would be enough to get in.
It's an inward-opening door made of 1" thick vertical boards with horizontal bracings top/middle/bottom. Lock is about 2/3 of the way up so a lot of leverage to the bottom corner.

It doesn't need to be a bunker but I would like an intruder to have to put some effort (and make some noise) getting in, and for it not to be so obviously flimsy.

Clearly a lock top/bottom would be a big improvement but seems a faff to get multi-point locking - even my house front door just has a regular lock but the door is thicker and the lock is half-way up for reduced leverage.

In terms of expense/work VS effectiveness, what are some options? Break-ins are not expected so it's perhaps more a peace-of-mind thing. Do insurers normally make specific requirements on out-building security or as long as it requires forcible entry is that enough?

 

[JohnD]

for cheapness, you could put a rack bolt in the ledges at the top and bottom. In the dark, an intruder might not notice the small holes for the key, or might have left his key at home.

Or, if you look on Freegle and Ebay, you will find any number of hardwood front-doors being thrown out by people who have squandred a thousand pounds on an ugly bit of white plastic. Provided you have a roof rack and a helper (they are quite heavy) you can get one from £0 to £10.
If glazed, fill in with 18mm ply if you like.

Or you could buy a new Ledged Braced and Framed door which would look similar to your old shed-type door (but is better)

There is not much call for second-hand doors, so be choosy and get a M&T hardwood one. They often come with locks and keys, and one one occasion I sold a good Chubb lock with a couple of keys for a tenner when I gave a door away.
Measure the size of your door carefully first.

Doors benefit from a lock, one third up from the bottom (kick height) and another, one third down from the top (shoulder height)

 

[MisterBoy]

Doors benefit from a lock, one third up from the bottom (kick height) and another, one third down from the top (shoulder height)

Yeah that was my initial thought, just a faff if they are separate locks especially with different keys. It's an old door and clearly in the past there was an 'antique' lock around kick height that's been replaced with a modern one at shoulder height. The cheap, easy option is clearly to just stick a lock back there. Maybe I'll do that, and only lock the bottom lock at night.

 

[JohnD]

there is an economical but strong rimlock you can use, if you are not expecting to be burgled by anyone who knows much about locks. Two (or more) on the same key.

Edit, I just checked, rare, and selling at £50. It is a simplified version (sold as Union FB2) of the Marston lock used on substations and utilities cabins. I got some for my sheds about a year ago when the price dropped, must have been stock clearance. Other FB2 locks are lightweights.

 

[foxhole]

When fitting rack bolts don't leave a round "key hole" cut a conventional key hole which will fool most dumb thieves its got a mortice lock on it.

 

[MisterBoy]

Oh I missed the comment about rack bolts. Might be good enough to be honest. They see it has a lock, they see it's fairly rigid and will have to either properly smash it in, or go elsewhere.

 

[HERTS P&D]

You could fit something this this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GARDEN-FAC...ocphy=1006625&hvtargid=pla-746558108361&psc=1

But have the brackets fixed to the door and not the frame (as the door opens inward)

Andy

 

[JohnD]

also, as you seem to have a simple ledged door, you can add a vertical stile down the lock side, that will stiffen it. Coach bolts are strongest.

 

[MisterBoy]

also, as you seem to have a simple ledged door, you can add a vertical stile down the lock side, that will stiffen it. Coach bolts are strongest.

Yeah that would be simple to do.

Regarding rack/security bolts, they all seem to be internal/concealed which isn't going to work on my 1" thick solid door (I think), unless I add a stile and take advantage of the greater thickness?

 

[JohnD]

I was thinking you'd put them in the ledges.

if somebody barges the door, the door will be pressing against the bolts, rather than pulling them out, so less likely to split the timber.

If you have a stile as well, that will make the effective thickness round the bolt even greater (if tightly screwed or bolted through both faces)

I think the star keys are about three inches long.

 

[chris1982]

On the hinge side you can add some cheap hinge bolts too.

 

[foxhole]

Have this on my gate , allows free access from inside , keyed ouitside.
Big 20mm square bolt.
https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk...2c2XtA02GpPhAzfmik2geih6Txu5fWOhoC2YkQAvD_BwE

 

[Tigercubrider]

I have the type of lock above on my side gate, it works fine.
A door at my old place of work was a bit wobbly so we added simple "shed" bortice locks that screwed on the backside of the door top and bottom.

Another way with a front door repurposed is to have it open out, it's way harder to force a door open when it opens out