Semi Conversion of garage

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Hi all.

I have a detatched double garage that's a single skin build with pitched roof.

Im looking to convert this into a gym but will be leaving the doors in place should I wish at a later date to park a car inside.

The idea origionally was to plasterboard the walls and ceilings, Tile the floor and insulate the doors, However this got me thinking onto insulating the whole lot as to save on heating bills.

Which leads me to my questions;

Is there any specific ways to fit insulations boards i.e do they need to be fitted with battons to have an air gap behind?

Can you fit thermal foil behind the insulation boards to reduce the heat loss even more?

And finally can thermal boards be plastered straight over as per a regular dry board?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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Baton the walls to take rockwool for sound insulation with foam board on top for thermal insulation then foil back plasterboard on top.Can then be skimmed as normal.
With a single skin a bitumen coat on walls and ceiling prior to conversion will provide damp protection especially with a thin wall.Treat ceiling as loft , that is insulate with loft insulation.You could fit heated tiled floor as it's a detached building and presumably has no heating.
 
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Retaining the existing garage doors will ensure that all of your other good works will have a negligible impact on heat retention.
 
I was going to insulate the garage doors along with fitting seals along the top bottom and sides.

I know its not ideal but as I wanted to still be able to use the garage to house a car in the future its the only option I have.

Unless of course there's another such as pre insulated garage doors that are better than insulating the existing ones?
 
Does garage have separate entry door ? if so you could put up a temp timber frame across garage doors and insulate as walls, would be a few hours work to dismantle in the event you wish to return to garage use.
 
You might be interested in what I did a couple of years ago. I have an integral garage to my bungalow and wanted to use it as a hobby room but easily converted back to a garage. I fixed 50mm polystyrene sheets over the garage door and then fixed 18mm chipboard over that. This was screwed to battens either side of the door opening. This has provided reasonable insulation for little cost. It can easily be reversed with very little evidence that it was ever done in the first place. (I didn't need to do anything to the walls as these are already double skinned with cavity wall insulation.)
 
Update.

As it was suggested that with the current doors even with insulation it would be a pointless excercise, and as I didnt want to have to mess around with putting up studwork that had to be removed if I wanted to convert the garage back to normal use I have decided to go down the route of having an electric insulated roller garage door installed.

Before I order the door I have been quoted around £1100 for one thats 14.5 feet in length and according to the brocure has a U value of 5.2 w/m2 K, Im not sure if this is any good for the price?

It kind of kills two birds with one stone as I had always prefered the look of a large single garage door as opposed to two singles, Anyway the my builder came round to quote me on the job and is awaiting the price of a 5.5 metre (i think that was the length) RSJ - does anyone know how much this should cost?

I have also painted all the intenal walls with a damp proof bitmumen membrane.

Another question I wanted to ask is will I need to put a spacer between the studwork and the walls to avoid any condensation that may form on the walls rotting the wood or will it be ok to just screw them directly to the walls?

Once completed I will post before and after photo's :)

Thanks again
 
5W/M²/°K is about the same as the glass in a single glazed window, so hardly insulated at all. With an area of about 10M², and a temperature difference of, say, 20°C, the heat losses through the fabric of the door would be of the order of 5W/M²/°K X 10M² X 20°C = 1KW of heat loss by radiation. Add on whatever figures you feel appropriate for convection by drafts around the shutter - they rarely seal well.
 

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