Seperate trip switch for cooker & shower

10 Sep 2011
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United Kingdom

Our shower and cooker are currently on the same trip switch and have been since before we moved here over 5 years ago. We dont use cooker and shower at same time as trips.

What posible price could we be looking at to get them put on seperate switches? At the moment on our box from left to right we have:

RCD sockets (big switch)
And then the main trip switch,

Any advice would be great and where I can find a genuine electrician - wolverhampton, west midlands

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It depends.

How are the shower and cooker connected together?

If they are joined at the consumer unit it could be an easy/relatively easy job.

Or they may be joined under the floor, in the loft, at an accessory etc.

This will involve getting a new cable back to the consumer unit.

It sounds like there isn't enough space in your consumer unit, so either a new consumer unit or an additional small consumer unit may be required.
Thanks for the reply. I am not too sure how they are connected. If we were needing an additional smaller consumer unit or a bigger one and also if they needed to access the wires if they are connected under floorboards etc or just swap at the consumer unit what could possibly be the costs we are looking at?

It has been like this for years and although not how it is meant to be I may have to leave as it is for now as I am on maternity and dont have massive funds (if any) to get it sorted.

I am needing to replace my built in oven as it is broken and the one we have at mo is 2.4kw and the new one will be 2.3kw so am hoping it will be adequate to keep us going for now.

House or bungalow or flat?

Are there any spare ways (blanks) in the consumer unit?

A 2.3 kW oven, though not ideal, be plugged into a socket.

Is it the oven connected with the shower, or is there a separate electric hob connected to the shower?
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It is a 2 bed semi detached. Not sure if shower is connected to hob or oven.

Basically we have built in oven and hob with a flick switch above sideboard if we want to use the hob and/or oven the flick switch has to be switched on. At back of built in oven (when taken out) we have a black approx 2.5mm wire coming from oven to a black circular junction box (with live, neutral & earth wires for each of the 2 grey and 1 black wires). We then have a 6mm grey wire from hob to junction box and a 6mm grey wire running from wall to junction box (which I believe connects the oven and hob to the flick switch.

I was going to remove the black wire from back of oven (unless new oven comes with wire - getting one which requires hard wiring which I believe is what we have with junction box etc) and connect to new oven. I am not going to be plugging a plug from wire into normal socket as this would cause issues I believe and also we dont have a 3 pin socket behind oven to do this it is just the hardwiring.


ADDED: Sorry forgot to add looking at the spaces on consumer unit they all have something wrote on them there is 1-6 & then 2 large ones (one main and 1 RCD sockets - another RCD on one of the smaller ones)
The junction box is 250v 30amp. It is running our current oven and hob and as the new oven I want to get is 2.3kw (old is 2.4kw) am I right in saying the junction box is okay to run this?

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