Fault finding and wiring diagrams sent
Hi
Would you be able to send me the fault finding manual, if you still have it.
Many Thanks
Service manual required for Ravenheat RSF 820/20
- Thread starter nick.king
- Start date
Hi
Would you be able to send me the fault finding manual, if you still have it.
Many Thanks
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You have mail
Ive asked the mods to delete your email. You should put it in your profile! Posting it on here makes it searchable on Internet search engines.
Ive asked the mods to delete your email. You should put it in your profile! Posting it on here makes it searchable on Internet search engines.
Hi I hope someone can help me, I need the pdf for the service manual of a Ravenheat 820/20. Have been on the Ravenheat site but it keeps freezing on me. Have searched house top and bottom today cannot find my copy. Having probs with water, it is cold!
I hope someone can help me, I need the pdf for the service manual of a Ravenheat 820/20. Have been on the Ravenheat site but it keeps freezing on me. Have searched house top and bottom today cannot find my copy. Having probs with water, it is cold!Sponsored Links
[Wiring and fault finding details sent as requested.]
Heres some info on the most likely cause.
Big brass thing in the middle is the diverter valve. The 'starship enterprise' end of that holds the diaphragm which is likely to be the cause of your woes. These cost about £15 - £20.
Take a mirror and a torch and look over the back of the diverter valve. The black box holds the microswitches. Rotate this so you can see the pin with a plastic foot come out to operate these switches when someone opens a hot tap. If this doesnt happen then that diaphragm is faulty.
Its nigh on impossible to swap the diaphragm in situ so I prefer to renew the full valve when finances allow. This is much more expensive though about £120+ but prevents callbacks if there happens to be an imminent problem with the other end of the valve.
Its not a job you would want to do twice and although you can DIY as this is not part of the 'gas train' I recommend you get an experienced corgi engineer to change it for you.
Tips for changing it:-
You need 8" and perhaps 10"waterpump pliers, adjustable spanners, angle pointy nose pliers, an adjustable tap spanner, care and patience.
Power off at isolation point outside the boiler [of course] then remove the pcb cover after you have got the water out. This will give you better access to remove the valve. Cover the PCB just incase with a plastic bag.
The thermocouple/ OH stat wires always get in the way so carefully move them aside.
I find it easier to start with the back two nuts and then work your way forward attaching the front connection last.
Leave the nuts loose until you get them all on their threads.
A corner you can usually cut is to re-use the microswitch head if the microswitches are ok. Although a bit tricky getting the clip on in situ they dont go wrong too often and you will have a spare to stash inside the boiler if they do eventually wear out.
Theres a black peg on the diverter valve head. You can use this to reduce the maximum flow rate to 11.3 l/min for 30º temp rise. (Flow rate data is the same as for RSF82 model)
Heres some info on the most likely cause.
Big brass thing in the middle is the diverter valve. The 'starship enterprise' end of that holds the diaphragm which is likely to be the cause of your woes. These cost about £15 - £20.
Take a mirror and a torch and look over the back of the diverter valve. The black box holds the microswitches. Rotate this so you can see the pin with a plastic foot come out to operate these switches when someone opens a hot tap. If this doesnt happen then that diaphragm is faulty.
Its nigh on impossible to swap the diaphragm in situ so I prefer to renew the full valve when finances allow. This is much more expensive though about £120+ but prevents callbacks if there happens to be an imminent problem with the other end of the valve.
Its not a job you would want to do twice and although you can DIY as this is not part of the 'gas train' I recommend you get an experienced corgi engineer to change it for you.
Tips for changing it:-
You need 8" and perhaps 10"waterpump pliers, adjustable spanners, angle pointy nose pliers, an adjustable tap spanner, care and patience.
Power off at isolation point outside the boiler [of course] then remove the pcb cover after you have got the water out. This will give you better access to remove the valve. Cover the PCB just incase with a plastic bag.
The thermocouple/ OH stat wires always get in the way so carefully move them aside.
I find it easier to start with the back two nuts and then work your way forward attaching the front connection last.
Leave the nuts loose until you get them all on their threads.
A corner you can usually cut is to re-use the microswitch head if the microswitches are ok. Although a bit tricky getting the clip on in situ they dont go wrong too often and you will have a spare to stash inside the boiler if they do eventually wear out.
Theres a black peg on the diverter valve head. You can use this to reduce the maximum flow rate to 11.3 l/min for 30º temp rise. (Flow rate data is the same as for RSF82 model)
Cheers, so grateful for the e-mail and enclosures.
Also the info above will be useful too. I needed the spare part numbers too which I see is given in the manual.
May you prosper and have great happiness, kind regards.
Also the info above will be useful too. I needed the spare part numbers too which I see is given in the manual.
May you prosper and have great happiness, kind regards.
hi, would someone be kind enough to send the maual for the rsf 820/20 to me please too, thanks angela
Tis done! If it saves you time, trouble or money feel free to send me some Dark chocolate
You have mail.
Its a good idea to delete your email as per an earlier post
Its a good idea to delete your email as per an earlier post
hi the cost of £120 thats for a genuine ravenheat one they are all made by gianani i checked up one with them and its the same valve the only difference is there is not a k in front of the serial number, on a boiler of that age its worth using one of the other suppliers at £30 each you get a new set of washers as well they come in a box and not in a plastic bag,, one other thing its a great description to help to do the replacement but don't forget to put the small plastic filter back in on the hot water drawer off side it usually drops out and if you have a bowl under it it can go unnoticed that its there until you have fitted the valve
i see someone mentioned replace the auto air bottle but to do that the front case to the combustion chamber has to be removed as its inside with the vent coming out of the top, so by doing that you would be compromising the gas side because you have broken the seal
so i think di yers should not go down that road
thats my view
mick
i see someone mentioned replace the auto air bottle but to do that the front case to the combustion chamber has to be removed as its inside with the vent coming out of the top, so by doing that you would be compromising the gas side because you have broken the seal
so i think di yers should not go down that road
thats my view
mick
Due to my lovely boiler playing up again I've now got to change the change over valve diaphragm - had a quick look but looks like a rats nest o get to the screws on the valve cover
Can any body let me have a pdf of the service manual for reference before I disturb something that I shouldn't
Can any body let me have a pdf of the service manual for reference before I disturb something that I shouldn't
Changing the diverter valve diaphragm is like mission impossible. I only have the wiring diagrams and fault finding guide at the moment. I have given tips on removing and refitting the DV earlier in this topic.
The only significant things that the manual tells you that I dont above is the obvious stuff about turning off the Electric, Cold Supply and CH flow and return connections and draining. It also advises removing the pump whereas I prefer to remove the PCB cover
The only significant things that the manual tells you that I dont above is the obvious stuff about turning off the Electric, Cold Supply and CH flow and return connections and draining. It also advises removing the pump whereas I prefer to remove the PCB cover
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