Shed Cladding and other little diosyncrasies

12 May 2013
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United Kingdom
I've lurked for a bit,
I've searched shed specific threads for ages...(about a year ago when I was going to build a shed...

And Now I've bought another Bike so Urgently need a Bike shed for the families Bikes, :rolleyes:

So the 5'5 x 10' Micro workshop shed is now on hold whilst I try my hand at a hopefully secure 6' x 4' Family Bike shed..

So the reason for the thread(well post at the moment) is to try and get all the info I need in one place ..

Thanks for reading this far, I'll try and be more concise in future posts ...

I've designed my Bike shed, with a few little design tweeks that in my head make it stronger and more secure, but effectively it's going to be pressure treated 3x2 CLS Framing and floor frame, clad in PT 22mm loglap, Pent roof, double door opening on low side to vertically store 5 bikes, and depending how it all pans out a BBQ and some other Bike specific bits and pieces...

Vertical storage so that each bike can be withdrawn seperately without affecting the others.

I have my cutting list ready for all apart from the floor and ceiling which I wanted to be PT T&G, but I seem to be struggling to find that bizarrley,

So I suddenly wondered about using Pressure treated decking, with or without gaps, and even drilling some drainage holes in the natural grooves in the decking so that collected water can drain, and also allow ventillation, as I figured If I have a sealed T&G floor any moisture left on the bikes after riding in rain etc will be captured in the shed, and the more sealed it is the longer it will take to drain, so am I nuts???A or does it have legs?B

next question is , as I'm going for security for obvious reasons, I have read that T&G sheds arn't very secure because they can be pryed off etc... I have a few ideas about that and my design has some bits that I believe will help, but should I clad the inside with decent thickness ply for additional security? C(obviously not worried about insulation) they're bikes :evil:

So Ply on the inside? or should I ply outside then clad?D that seems like overkill, where as a full sheet of ply inside the framing would be a biatch to get through...(and the lock would then be the only way to go)

back to the cladding 125mm ex approx 115 face x 22mm final sizing, should I use one or two nails and where?E as it's for security, did I mention that :rolleyes: I assume hidden nailing is pointless....

I also considered not every board, but some rows screwing through from the back to the thickest part of the board?

does this make sense?F

Ok so hopefully you weren't all bored before answering..I live in hope :mrgreen:

Cheers BSB
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that was very long, but I found this question in it

So I suddenly wondered about using Pressure treated decking, with or without gaps, and even drilling some drainage holes in the natural grooves in the decking so that collected water can drain, and also allow ventillation,

Decking boards will make a strong. non-slip floor. You will need to space them off the ground to allow air circulation and prevent damp from the ground touching any timber.

Unless you are capable of making an air-tight shed, it will not need much extra ventilation. If you drill a few holes on the gable ends, very high up, that will do. Water vapour is lighter than air so will rise to the top, and holes at each end will give airflow.

Unless your roof leaks there should not be water collecting on the floor.
that was very long, but I found this question in it

appologies, I started and it all just spewed out :)

I added bold letters for each question :p

but I just meant wet bikes potentially dripping water , I don't intend any leaks, but will take on board the high level vents, thanks for bothering to read as much as you did ;)
yep quite a mouth full :D
2 screws in a plank will cause cracking as it expands and contracts
3x2 cls is 2.5x1.5" [63x38mm] so you could screw from behind into the cladding in the bottom 1/3 assuming the locking system works on the the bottom off the plank holding in top off the next

the actual length off the screw and position would rely on trial and error as to what will give the maximum grip length without dislodging the surface layers

if you space your timbers at 16" centers this will give a 14.5" or 370mm gap between timbers that would make it impossible to get a bike out if the rip the cladding off

the chances off any one using the walls as an entry method are at best slim to zero but for peace off mind and an extra few bits off cls will give you peace off mind
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if you treat the decking boards with a decking stain or oil, a bit of water won't hurt them. It is easiest to treat timbers on all faces before assembly, and just touch up any cuts or holes that you make during the build. Decking is treated (apart from ends you cut) and is intended for outdoor use, so I wouldn't worry about the drips. The cracks between the boards will probably open up a bit as it dries out, so giving slight ventilation.

A good tip is to run decking towards the door or other opening so you can sweep it out. It is very hard to sweep across the grooves. If you are expecting a lot of water, slope it slightly downwards towards the door. If the inside of the shed is damp your tools will go rusty from condensation.

See if you can get a second-hand front or back door on freegle or ebay, I got two for my shed, both solid hardwood and very strong, one had a chubb lock with it and cost me £5, the other cost me 99p.
Thanks for the replies guys,

I had originally thought about sloping the floor towards the door a little , and whilst sleeping I'm liking the idea of decking floor even more so I think I'll persevere with both of those, Thanks!

Verticals are indeed near enough 16" and already have excessive cross members.

Having come across a I think it was Big-all's post saying 2x3 was 50% stronger that cls, I might reconsider that, as all of my Plans have been based on full measurements anyway.

I have designed heavy duty 4x2frame and braced 750mm double doors clad in vertical cladding, hung on 3off heavy duty S/S fire door hinges, but I will certainly look for hardwood doors cheap as I assume theres a considerable strength benefit there, so apart from cost would the doors I propose be 'that' much weaker' ?

I haven't discounted T-strap hinges, just like the idea of intenally mounted hinges

I also intended to create some form of mechanical beam locking the doors together also, though I'm well aware it's only as strong as the lock I'm an Elec-Mech engineer, so whilst no wood experience I tend to over engineer...

whats the general feeling on the cladding? reverse screwed or if I can lay my hands on a nail gun , nailed with annular ring shanks??

and as Big-All suggests only one per length per joist? ? I was worried about cupping as well as splitting??

if it's wet, should I cram the tounge home, or allow a small expansion?

and is the feeling that theres no need for ply cladding inside for what is specifically a bike store(and whatever else I have room for?)

or 'why not', it can't hurt and provides another barrier??

Sorry I know I promised to be more concise, but the better half can't help with these types of questions


you really need to know the dry width then space off say 2 or 3mm so iff the coverage is 109mm when as dry as a hot summer then leave a 3mm gap if the timber is greater than 114 then you need to dry it enough to allow it being tightly fitted at 114mm otherwise you risk the wood separating in the hottest weather

you wont get cupping with the screw in the correct place as one end is held by the screw and the other is held by the previous board
its probably stored outside so will be wet

ask them if you can have an off cut and chuck it somewhere dry for a few weeks

the machines will cut to a set size but the finished size depends on the moisture content at time off machining if its wetter it will finish up smaller as it shrinks and off course if its very dry it will expand
A rather belated Thankyou to all those that gave me some help and advice Way back when!!

I just stumbled upon this thread again whilst searching for internal shed cladding advice and realised I hadn't Thanked ya'll ...

Unfortunately, circumstances beyond my control meant I wasn't able to carry out the build due to knee operation and subsequent infections and operations to fix that, that are still affecting me today :( I'm still facing another 3 operations at least but hopefully, a TKR will at least fix the other leg.

I therefore, had to stump up the cash for a local company to build the Main storage shed/miniworkshop that will house everything but the bikes but creating room to allow the bikes sole access to the brick outhouse .

'm very happy with the build but to keep costs down it's only single skinned shiplap but heavy framed.

I would like to skin the inside, and potentially lag it depending on costs, so if anyone reads this far, I'd appreciate lagging and cladding(inside) options? bearing in mind there is no membrane between the framing and the shiplap si anything suggested will be on the inside of the outer cladding and frame.

Its a big shed, so need to keep costs down, but would pro's and cons of the different methods available if possible.


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