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- 12 May 2013
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Hi,
I've lurked for a bit,
I've searched shed specific threads for ages...(about a year ago when I was going to build a shed...
And Now I've bought another Bike so Urgently need a Bike shed for the families Bikes,
So the 5'5 x 10' Micro workshop shed is now on hold whilst I try my hand at a hopefully secure 6' x 4' Family Bike shed..
So the reason for the thread(well post at the moment) is to try and get all the info I need in one place ..
Thanks for reading this far, I'll try and be more concise in future posts ...
I've designed my Bike shed, with a few little design tweeks that in my head make it stronger and more secure, but effectively it's going to be pressure treated 3x2 CLS Framing and floor frame, clad in PT 22mm loglap, Pent roof, double door opening on low side to vertically store 5 bikes, and depending how it all pans out a BBQ and some other Bike specific bits and pieces...
Vertical storage so that each bike can be withdrawn seperately without affecting the others.
I have my cutting list ready for all apart from the floor and ceiling which I wanted to be PT T&G, but I seem to be struggling to find that bizarrley,
So I suddenly wondered about using Pressure treated decking, with or without gaps, and even drilling some drainage holes in the natural grooves in the decking so that collected water can drain, and also allow ventillation, as I figured If I have a sealed T&G floor any moisture left on the bikes after riding in rain etc will be captured in the shed, and the more sealed it is the longer it will take to drain, so am I nuts???A or does it have legs?B
next question is , as I'm going for security for obvious reasons, I have read that T&G sheds arn't very secure because they can be pryed off etc... I have a few ideas about that and my design has some bits that I believe will help, but should I clad the inside with decent thickness ply for additional security? C(obviously not worried about insulation) they're bikes
So Ply on the inside? or should I ply outside then clad?D that seems like overkill, where as a full sheet of ply inside the framing would be a biatch to get through...(and the lock would then be the only way to go)
back to the cladding 125mm ex approx 115 face x 22mm final sizing, should I use one or two nails and where?E as it's for security, did I mention that I assume hidden nailing is pointless....
I also considered not every board, but some rows screwing through from the back to the thickest part of the board?
does this make sense?F
Ok so hopefully you weren't all bored before answering..I live in hope
Cheers BSB
I've lurked for a bit,
I've searched shed specific threads for ages...(about a year ago when I was going to build a shed...
And Now I've bought another Bike so Urgently need a Bike shed for the families Bikes,
So the 5'5 x 10' Micro workshop shed is now on hold whilst I try my hand at a hopefully secure 6' x 4' Family Bike shed..
So the reason for the thread(well post at the moment) is to try and get all the info I need in one place ..
Thanks for reading this far, I'll try and be more concise in future posts ...
I've designed my Bike shed, with a few little design tweeks that in my head make it stronger and more secure, but effectively it's going to be pressure treated 3x2 CLS Framing and floor frame, clad in PT 22mm loglap, Pent roof, double door opening on low side to vertically store 5 bikes, and depending how it all pans out a BBQ and some other Bike specific bits and pieces...
Vertical storage so that each bike can be withdrawn seperately without affecting the others.
I have my cutting list ready for all apart from the floor and ceiling which I wanted to be PT T&G, but I seem to be struggling to find that bizarrley,
So I suddenly wondered about using Pressure treated decking, with or without gaps, and even drilling some drainage holes in the natural grooves in the decking so that collected water can drain, and also allow ventillation, as I figured If I have a sealed T&G floor any moisture left on the bikes after riding in rain etc will be captured in the shed, and the more sealed it is the longer it will take to drain, so am I nuts???A or does it have legs?B
next question is , as I'm going for security for obvious reasons, I have read that T&G sheds arn't very secure because they can be pryed off etc... I have a few ideas about that and my design has some bits that I believe will help, but should I clad the inside with decent thickness ply for additional security? C(obviously not worried about insulation) they're bikes
So Ply on the inside? or should I ply outside then clad?D that seems like overkill, where as a full sheet of ply inside the framing would be a biatch to get through...(and the lock would then be the only way to go)
back to the cladding 125mm ex approx 115 face x 22mm final sizing, should I use one or two nails and where?E as it's for security, did I mention that I assume hidden nailing is pointless....
I also considered not every board, but some rows screwing through from the back to the thickest part of the board?
does this make sense?F
Ok so hopefully you weren't all bored before answering..I live in hope
Cheers BSB