Shed cladding in very tight spot?

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Hi, guys. I have a studwork garden building which has had to be built very close to, but not touching, a higher brick wall. I have clad three exterior sides in shiplap, but the side close to the wall has about a fist of clearance and I can't nail or screw anything from that side. That side of the building is also an irregular shape, i.e. it is not just "square" but steps wider as you go up. Hard to picture, but just know that it's not regular.

The options I can think of are either some kind of hard sheet material (would have to be somewhat weatherproof, but ply would probably last long enough), which I would have to cut into a few pieces and slide in from the side, and screw from the inside. Problems include no way to seal the joins from the outside, and having to screw from the inside.

Or, perhaps some kind of soft/roll material that I could apply, and bring around the edges a few cm to batten on. Again, though, I can't fix that to the studwork from the outside of the wall.

Any ideas or suggestions? I'll get some pictures in daylight tomorrow.

Many thanks,
 
first question does the roof slope to this end or away and no gutter??
how tall is it and can you slide sheet material in whole
 
Last edited:
first question does the roof slop to this end or away??
how tall is it and can you slide sheet material in whole

The wall is about 2.8m highest and there's a pent roof - this wall is one of the sloping edges. I'm putting onduline on the roof and though there won't be flashing, I can make the onduline touch the brick wall itself, so there'll never be any direct weather on that wall.

I may be able to get a whole sheet in, come to think of it. Just about - cut to shape (irregular) first.
 
ok just to clarify there will be water directly shedding on to the brick wall [do you own it]??
or do you mean the brick wall has the apex touching it so flow parallel to the brick wall??
 
ok just to clarify there will be water directly shedding on to the brick wall [do you own it]??
or do you mean the brick wall has the apex touching it so flow parallel to the brick wall??

The brick wall runs along the sloping edge of the roof, so the only shedding from the roof will be the tiny fraction running off sideways from the very last ridge of the onduline. Given that previously the entire wall was fully open to the weather, and now ~3m of it are mostly shielded, overall there will be less water on it than before.

The main runoff from the roof will flow parallel with the wall and into a gutter running perpendicular from the wall.

Pics tomorrow, I'm probably not explaining it well!
 
ahh ok sounds fine
just remember if you dont own the wall you need permission to touch it
further comments
is the room elevated on top off say wooden joists or does it have say a slab as the floor with walls sitting on it??
 
Here it is - it's going to be a sauna. The back wall shown. Clearance to the bricks is no more than 100mm.

I have a big sheet of DPC I could use, what do we think of that? It's not "breathable" but if it's going basically be open (as in, not battened) at the top and bottom, will condensation be a problem?

The rest of the wall, from inside to out, will go:

light t&g
reflective foil
100mm mineral wool roll, compressed to ~68mm
heavy t&g (as pictured)

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You could slide in a pre cut panel of sheet material that is pre painted or covered in a weatherproof finish.
Maybe use hardboard templates to get the dimensions ?
Even the stuff they use in showers - hardie board?

I’d use the vertical 2x4’s as jointing and fix blocks to the sectioned sheet material before sliding it in place, positioned to line up with the studwork sides, making fixing sheet to stud easier from inside.

You could use mastic on the sheet seams and they’d seal the butt joins or find an H section extrusion that fits the sheet material, again with mastic in the joins?
 
Does it get much sunlight during the day?
I ask, because those steps would make a fine terrace for growing tom's, and/or herbs.
 
is the timber separated from the slab and by what??
the only way i can see water being kept out is at roof level because any water running down to the pillar is then internal
 
Problem should have been solved before build, drop a roll of dpc down it and staple .
 
Yeah, sensible way would have been to build the wall facing end flat on the floor first, then lift it up and build the rest off the finished end.
 

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