Shed shelving

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Looking to build in shelving to a new shed arriving next week (10x6). Wanting to keep it simple and cheap. Looking to take 2 shelves all the way round the 2 sides and back.

Want to use London brackets (cheap, readily available and quick) and some type of sheet material ripped down to size.

I have 2 sheets of OSB 18mm (in storage for another project - but this has got pushed back because of material costs) that I could use, but I'm a little worried about the weight - ideally I would have aimed for something closer to 9-12mm plus a baton on the front to help with bowing.

I can buy a thinner sheet if necessary (may need more than 1) but if I can get away with the 18mm I have it would save me money. Timber is so expensive today.

I have never used London brackets before so I am unsure of what weight they could support. Shelf width around 10-12 inches and I will put a bracket up on most if not all of the uprights. The shelves will not be holding very heavy items - maybe smaller tins of paints, cans, hand tools etc etc. Heavier items such as power tools, tool boxes etc will be at ground level.

So - use what I have? or buy a thinner sheet and baton it at the front.
 
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Sheds are usually very flimsily built. Do you know the dimensions of the studs?

the brackets themselves will be stronger than the shed.
 
Sheds are usually very flimsily built. Do you know the dimensions of the studs?

the brackets themselves will be stronger than the shed.

Not the strongest shed, but not the worst either. 3x1.5 inch studs, 19mm panelling.
 
i personally would start with a shelving unit in a back corner and take it from there
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124329603427?hash=item1cf29f3163:g:6ocAAOSw8jJfV2ZR

shelving from brackets may sound cheap but by the time you add 2x1par[18x44mm] to the back and front for support thats about £4 a meter added to the cost
whatever height you think off it will be wrong for most purposes so do it area by area several months appart
for example the area you store your bikes needs the shelve below 6ft to avoid wasted space the area above your flymo folded up may need to be a bit higher
then youre rakes and spades need i go on ??
the area at a window leave that till last and think bench and light
 
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Do you need brackets ?

6' x 2' bit across the back secured onto a batton at each end and the long end secured with screws from the outside.
Then a 1' x 8' up each side, batton at one end then plated underneath to join the shelf across the back, and the long end secured with screws from the outside of shed.
support the shelves with either uprights from the floor or angled in from the wall.

It would greatly strengthen the shed, create strong shelves and use a minimum of material.

That would use up your 2 sheets of OSB and you would need a few lengths of 20mm x 40mm + a box of 5 x 50 screws

xshelve2.gif
 
Thanks for the thoughts and ideas. I do not want free standing shelving. I find it just blocks space. I prefer to use the floor up to a certain height and put shelves up from that height most if not all of the way round to utilise the space near the top. I will try the brackets first and if need be add batons and/or floor supports. They really won't be taking anything of substantial weight. I see lots of people putting tools, tool boxes, paint etc on shelving. I do not do that. Anything heavy is at floor level, in the loft or if expensive in under stair storage in the house (including most power tools)
 
In my 10x12 hut, I have shelving along one side and the rear and up close into the roof. The rear edge of the shelves sit on the battens which are part of the hut structure, the front edges of the shelves are supported by hangers from the hut roof, which is an apex style. The 'hangers' are simply repurposed metal coat hanger wire, by forming eyes at the ends for screws and bolts. It makes good storage for long, thin lighter items.

Lower down as a bit of work space, I have an old repurposed interior flush door, on timber legs below the window. Opposite long side wall and rear walls, have various brackets and hooks to hang spades, shovels, yard brushes, axes, rakes and hedge cutters etc... Between the roof timbers I store three pairs of alloy steps - using a fixed piece of tube spanning between the roof timbers for supporting one end and a hook bracket supporting the other end of the steps. Getting the steps out, is a simple matter of lifting off the hook bracket and sliding out.
 
Not the strongest shed, but not the worst either. 3x1.5 inch studs, 19mm panelling.
OSB on the inside all the way around will strengthen your shed.

You can then put your shelves anywhere you like.
 
OSB on the inside all the way around will strengthen your shed. You can then put your shelves anywhere you like.
So will making the shed out of brick but didn’t you read the original post? He has two sheets of OSB. The OP wants to utilise what he has without the expense of buying more timber "wanting to keep it simple and cheap" was the term used. Your suggestion is neither simple or cheap.
 
So will making the shed out of brick but didn’t you read the original post? He has two sheets of OSB. The OP wants to utilise what he has without the expense of buying more timber "wanting to keep it simple and cheap" was the term used. Your suggestion is neither simple or cheap.
But with hindsight maybe the OP will realise that it's worthwhile to spend a bit in order to achieve something more lasting and more useful...

I've learnt that through experience, and am just trying to point that out...

Why do you never give up? (n)
 
Just out of interest. Used London brackets (200x250mm) and my 18mm OSB ripped down to 11 inch wide shelves notched out to slide round the uprights and sit flush with the panelled walls. 2 shelves all the way round making great use of the height in the shed. Predrilled the bracket holes at angles to grab a lot of timber and decent screws used. Very solid and after filling the shelves there is not an ounce of movement or give. Didn't need to worry at all.
 

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