Shed Termination

[mjtefc9]

Hi all,

I think I'm just being anal... but I have an adaptable box in the garden fed with a 6mm SWA. I'm extending this to the shed, and I want to avoid another joint, but I don't want to terminate outside the shed in the box and just feed singles through the timber wall (12mm, may have insulation going forward) The SWA can't go direct to the shed DB due to the bend radius.

Shall I just bight the bullet and add another joint and install some double insulated flex to the shed DB? I'm installing so I know its earthed and terminated correctly..

This is probably a completely unnecessary post and just me over thinking !

TIA

 

[EFLImpudence]

If I understand correctly:

I think I'm just being anal... but I have an adaptable box in the garden fed with a 6mm SWA. I'm extending this to the shed, and I want to avoid another joint, but I don't want to terminate outside the shed in the box and just feed singles through the timber wall (12mm, may have insulation going forward)

Why singles?

The SWA can't go direct to the shed DB due to the bend radius.

There must be some way to do it without such bends.

Shall I just bight the bullet and add another joint and install some double insulated flex to the shed DB? I'm installing so I know its earthed and terminated correctly..

I don't follow the logic. Do you not earth and terminate correctly other types of cable?

This is probably a completely unnecessary post and just me over thinking !

Could be.

 

[ericmark]

I fitted a double outdoor socket to the outside of the shed, and used that to terminate the SWA,

 

[mjtefc9]

If I understand correctly:


Why singles?


There must be some way to do it without such bends.


I don't follow the logic. Do you not earth and terminate correctly other types of cable?



Could be.

Terminate the SWA and then the singles inside the SWA would pass through the wall.. and no I refuse to earth and correctly terminate other cable types..

 

[mjtefc9]

I fitted a double outdoor socket to the outside of the shed, and used that to terminate the SWA,

But you are limited to 13a now?

 

[ericmark]

But you are limited to 13a now?

Not really, my supply is from a 16 amp RCBO so shed has a 16 amp supply, I could have used a 20 amp RCBO in the same way, I wanted a new RCBO, so the supply could be used to charge my son's car if required, so wanted a bidirectional type A to replace the original type AC RCBO.

 

[mjtefc9]

Not really, my supply is from a 16 amp RCBO so shed has a 16 amp supply, I could have used a 20 amp RCBO in the same way, I wanted a new RCBO, so the supply could be used to charge my son's car if required, so wanted a bidirectional type A to replace the original type AC RCBO.

But with it being terminated in a 13a socket then extended to the shed ?

 

[jj4091]

It's just the sockets for the plug pins that would be limited to 13A not the terminals for the wires.

 

[mjtefc9]

It's just the sockets for the plug pins that would be limited to 13A not the terminals for the wires.

I get you..

Just didn't think it good practice.. in my situation the socket would have 6mm in and out..

 

[ericmark]

Most sockets will take two 6 mm² at least MK say they will, but it was just a suggestion, it in my case saved having a hole in the floor of the shed, for the cable and mice to get in, halfway up the side of the shed, less likely to get any other things using the hole for cable.

It could have gone anywhere, the shed sits on plastic pallets, so no part of the wood is in contact with the ground, so less likely to rot. This also means could fit a cable anywhere into the shed, but outside light and socket mean the area in front of the shed ideal for a BBQ. Inside sockets back to back with outside sockets.

 

[mjtefc9]

Most sockets will take two 6 mm² at least MK say they will, but it was just a suggestion, it in my case saved having a hole in the floor of the shed, for the cable and mice to get in, halfway up the side of the shed, less likely to get any other things using the hole for cable.

It could have gone anywhere, the shed sits on plastic pallets, so no part of the wood is in contact with the ground, so less likely to rot. This also means could fit a cable anywhere into the shed, but outside light and socket mean the area in front of the shed ideal for a BBQ. View attachment 404556 Inside sockets back to back with outside sockets.

Brilliant.. I have a socket currently and was going to replace with an adaptable box.. so maybe no need too now !

 

[JohnW2]

Just didn't think it good practice..

There's no feal reason why not - the terminals of a socket are, in the sense we are talking about, no different from those of any junction box or other 'connector'.

in my situation the socket would have 6mm in and out..

That would probably be far from impossible, with a decent socket. For example, MK 'Masterseal' ones are said to have terminals which will accommodate 2 x 6mm² conductors (I'm not sure what they mean by "(standard)" !) ....

 

[mjtefc9]

There's no feal reason why not - the terminals of a socket are, in the sense we are talking about, no different from those of any junction box or other 'connector'.

That would probably be far from impossible, with a decent socket. For example, MK 'Masterseal' ones are said to have terminals which will accommodate 2 x 6mm² conductors (I'm not sure what they mean by "(standard)" !) ....

View attachment 404557

Brilliant thanks John..

 

[justigator]

Can't you strip a good bit - say 300mm or so - of the armour off the SWA, then just fix the SWA to an external box with a gland and feed the conductors straight through a hole drilled in the wall through the back of the box? No need for any joints in the external box and once you've got the armour off, the conductors are reasonably flexible. That's how some electricians ran power to my wooden-walled garden room a couple of years back, in my case to a small consumer unit inside the room.

 

[mjtefc9]

Can't you strip a good bit - say 300mm or so - of the armour off the SWA, then just fix the SWA to an external box with a gland and feed the conductors straight through a hole drilled in the wall through the back of the box? No need for any joints in the external box and once you've got the armour off, the conductors are reasonably flexible. That's how some electricians ran power to my wooden-walled garden room a couple of years back, in my case to a small consumer unit inside the room.

Thats the issue.. the conductors going through the wall are now singles.. I think I'll just run some flex from the new DB