i'm about to clad my outhouse with shiplap but not too sure whether to start at the bottom or top of each wall.I'm tucking up under a soffit so is it best to start at the top ...if i start the lengths on the bottom then i may have trouble slotting in the top length..any clues lads?
shiplap
- Thread starter spoonse
- Start date
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I'm no pro....
When I built our summerhouse iI started at the bottom. Then the next one sits snug on top of the last ( so gravity is working with you rather than against you)
Make sure you get the first one SPOT ON LEVEL AND at the correct height! or you'll end up having problems the higher you go. Also check your levels every few rows, if it starts to go out of level you'll not notice till you get to the top!
You might find that if it goes out a LITTLE bit you can compensate slightly with the next, but as long as you start level and each one sit nicely on the last it should stay pretty much ok.
As far as the soffits go, I put mine on after the shiplap. But either way it shouldn't be a problem tucking the last piece under the soffit and fitting it over the preceeding piece of shiplap, as it's only a rebate.
When I built our summerhouse iI started at the bottom. Then the next one sits snug on top of the last ( so gravity is working with you rather than against you)
Make sure you get the first one SPOT ON LEVEL AND at the correct height! or you'll end up having problems the higher you go. Also check your levels every few rows, if it starts to go out of level you'll not notice till you get to the top!
You might find that if it goes out a LITTLE bit you can compensate slightly with the next, but as long as you start level and each one sit nicely on the last it should stay pretty much ok.
As far as the soffits go, I put mine on after the shiplap. But either way it shouldn't be a problem tucking the last piece under the soffit and fitting it over the preceeding piece of shiplap, as it's only a rebate.
you have to start at the bottom. Also space off or kick out the bottom one on the battens so it is not in contact with the wall or plate or ground (to prevent it getting damp and rotting quickly). The bottom board will be the first to rot. so fix it with brass screws so you can easily get it off. Give it a thorough soak in preservative. You might like to prepare a few spare boards and tuck them behind the cladding for later repairs and replacement.
cut the final (top) piece to fit
as the boards expand and contact with the weather, if they are dry, tuck a bit of folded cardboard between each board as you fit it
just use one row of screws or nails per board - if you use two, one above the other, it will crack between them when it next contracts
It is inclined to crack, so I would drill and countersink before fixing. You can also treat it with your water-repellent stain after cutting and drilling but before fixing. I do both sides.
Protect the ends with a strip (preferably hardwood) stained to match
Shiplap is not completely weatherproof so considerr some felt under the battens to keep wind and moisture out
cut the final (top) piece to fit
as the boards expand and contact with the weather, if they are dry, tuck a bit of folded cardboard between each board as you fit it
just use one row of screws or nails per board - if you use two, one above the other, it will crack between them when it next contracts
It is inclined to crack, so I would drill and countersink before fixing. You can also treat it with your water-repellent stain after cutting and drilling but before fixing. I do both sides.
Protect the ends with a strip (preferably hardwood) stained to match
Shiplap is not completely weatherproof so considerr some felt under the battens to keep wind and moisture out
thanks guys that really helps,how long can i leave it before i finally get to coat it up with a waterproof solution as i've only weekends to put it on? So if i complete say two sides will it be ok to leave it bare untill i next have time in say a week?And do i fill all screwholes before painting?
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are you sure you want to paint it? I'd go for a flexible, breathing, water-repellent stain, like a waxy fence stain.
Some of then are only suitable for rough-sawn timber like fences, you need one that will go onto planed wood.
Personally I would treat it before assembly. Painting damp outdoor timber at this time of the year will not be much good.
It will expand and contract a lot with the weather so fillers will tend to fall out.
here's one I did earlier
View media item 4848
Some of then are only suitable for rough-sawn timber like fences, you need one that will go onto planed wood.
Personally I would treat it before assembly. Painting damp outdoor timber at this time of the year will not be much good.
It will expand and contract a lot with the weather so fillers will tend to fall out.
here's one I did earlier
View media item 4848
before you fix any boards you need to know the dry coverage
if its 5" boards it will be around 109mm if its more than 111 "dont leave any gaps" because when the summer comes you will get shrinkage
also you need to make shure your boards at the bottom cover the edge of flooring if its wood to protect and stop the driving rain wetting it
what i done was start from the bottom up till just above half way
i then worked from the top down untill less than a full plank was left
measure from the bottom off the top plank to the rebate of the tounge say its 60mm add 12mm and rebate the back out 15mm 2/3ds thickness to slip over the front off the tounge and give you up to 6mm deviation along the length
if your using a router and you have to remove high spots along the length
pin lightly in place fully up in the slot and run a pencill along the top off the tounge
transfer the amounts down to the bottom edge and plane/sand/cut to the line then when you router the bearing will follow the new edge
when its a good fit plane/sand the profile to a curve to match
you can if you wish carry on up to the top cut the top peice to fit in and remove the back off the groove to allow it to slip on
in eaither case add a bitt of off cut to the back to hold the board in place like the back off the groove would do
an off cut 35m overlapping the the lower plank by 10mm and screwed in the top plank 15mm down
if its 5" boards it will be around 109mm if its more than 111 "dont leave any gaps" because when the summer comes you will get shrinkage
also you need to make shure your boards at the bottom cover the edge of flooring if its wood to protect and stop the driving rain wetting it
what i done was start from the bottom up till just above half way
i then worked from the top down untill less than a full plank was left
measure from the bottom off the top plank to the rebate of the tounge say its 60mm add 12mm and rebate the back out 15mm 2/3ds thickness to slip over the front off the tounge and give you up to 6mm deviation along the length
if your using a router and you have to remove high spots along the length
pin lightly in place fully up in the slot and run a pencill along the top off the tounge
transfer the amounts down to the bottom edge and plane/sand/cut to the line then when you router the bearing will follow the new edge
when its a good fit plane/sand the profile to a curve to match
you can if you wish carry on up to the top cut the top peice to fit in and remove the back off the groove to allow it to slip on
in eaither case add a bitt of off cut to the back to hold the board in place like the back off the groove would do
an off cut 35m overlapping the the lower plank by 10mm and screwed in the top plank 15mm down
A
awbcm
To reinforce big-all’s comment on covering see this guide that big-all and my self put together.
Don’t forget that you can also any boarding vertically as well as horizontally. And you may want to consider UPVC cladding it works out lot easer on the wallet in the long run.
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