I VE HAD MY SYSTEM REGASSED TWICE RECENTLY , BUT THE GAS SEEMS TO LEAK OUT SOMEWHERE , THE TECHNICIAN CANT FIND A LEAK WHEN ON PRESSURE TEST BUT NOW THERE IS A HORRID (COW PAT SMELL )WHENEVER I TURN IT ON AND OFF COURSE NO COOL AIR , I CANT KEEP USING THIS SAME GUY AND NEED ADVICE WHAT TO DO NEXT , THANKS MICHAEL
SHOGUN AIR CONDITIONING SMELL
- Thread starter michaelc
- Start date
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If the gas isn't on the inside, it has to be on the outside. Therefore it's leaking and if he looks hard enough, he'll see where it's leaking from. Have you looked round all the joints? Condensors have a hard life stuck up front like that, have a good look at it, you might see something.
A similar thing happened to me. In the end I gave up. After several regasses and a brand new condenser failed to cure the problem it was just getting too costly - by then the total bill was north of £500. I now get hot in summer!
I read that the smell is on the inside of the car.
The tech 'should' have a decent electronic leak tester which if he pressure tests it will pick the leaak up. One way of finding evap leaks is to stick the tester up the condensate drain hose underneath the car as refrigerant is heavier than air and will drop down the hose. Or if it's that bad just sit inside with the doors closed for a while and if the tester goes off...
Cheers
Richard
The tech 'should' have a decent electronic leak tester which if he pressure tests it will pick the leaak up. One way of finding evap leaks is to stick the tester up the condensate drain hose underneath the car as refrigerant is heavier than air and will drop down the hose. Or if it's that bad just sit inside with the doors closed for a while and if the tester goes off...
Cheers
Richard
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BTC said:
In the old day's we would be called in by garages to carry out proper checks on car a/c. We would do a though investigation to the point of identifying the leak and then getting them to part change. We would then com back and vac, recharge.
However when they started to get the rigs themselves they just get the apprentice to press a few buttons. Few have had any proper training aside from the rig manufacturers who come down for 1/2 day(and that's operational training not refrigeration training...). They don't tend to know refrigeration- just re-charge.
My latest Zafira was discounted and bought with the a.c not working. A 20 min test revealed a lose connection on the receiver- a new 'O' ring, vac and re-charge and jobs a good'en
A decent engineer would have identified the leak and got it fixed without a doubt
Cheers
Richard
Is it long wheelbase if so did he check the pipe work going to the left hand rearside of vehicle 2 alloy pipes one 16mm diameter the other 8mm held on with steel clips usualy corroded through around a couple of feet of rear axle check for oily sweat around clips.michaelc said:
If so find air con specilist that can replace alloy pipe with proper rubber hose.
when a car loses AC gas theres no point refilling, you must use GAS with UV DYE , then use a UV light or glasses to see where the gas is leaking. Its readily availbe, otherwise you wont find the leak.
Theres no point doing a pressure test hes a muppet.
The smell should really pass but you must keep the AC to off position for a while , otherwise the AC pump will continue to pump round that dead stuff in the AC system heeheehee
Theres no point doing a pressure test hes a muppet.
The smell should really pass but you must keep the AC to off position for a while , otherwise the AC pump will continue to pump round that dead stuff in the AC system heeheehee
al-yeti said:
Absolute tosh of course.
Correctly done a pressure test is one of the better ways of leak testing. UV is a last resort/lazy mans method as it relies on the leak itself. Plus you simply cannot reach all the potential leakage parts unless your're willing to rip the whole car apart. Use UV by all means -I'm certainly not against it- but it's not the first choice of refrigeration or air conditioning engineers
Cheers
Richard
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