Shower Pump

I see that the pump is connected to the bath taps, these pumps are really just for a single shower, so if you have been trialing it with the bath taps open, maybe you are exceeding its design capacity.

EDIT:
Here's an alternative way to a fitting a flange to get an air free supply.

View attachment 167114

Thanks for the sketch. Is the slight uphill angle of the offsetting pipe important or just the way it was drawn? I think I saw something about this on a Youtube video but the bloke did not explain anything properly. I did ask in the comments for clarification but there has been no reply so far. I will try my idea with the pipe going further into the cylinder first as that is an easy modification, without need to drill any extra holes in the concrete ceiling.
 
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The incline in the horizontal pipe is to allow air bubbles to float upwards and escape up the expansion / vent pipe, instead of being sucked into the pump. The kink in the vertical vent pipe is so that the 'T' connection into it isn't under strain.
 
Thanks again. The guy has replied to my question about his Youtube video but I think he just wants to sell me one of his pumps!
 
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The cold tank was sitting on the concrete floor of the loft, which I had thought should be adequate as the house has high ceilings. Today I raised it by about 0.6 m and I just tried the shower pump again. It made no difference, it still shut off after a short time. The water was still cold so it was not due to too high a water temperature. I had also done the modification I mentioned, extending the outlet pipe further into the cylinder. I do not fully understand the theory regarding the flange fittings but suspect what I did was completely pointless. People talk about aerated water but I think the purpose of the flange is to isolate the pump from the vent pipe, so that it can not suck out all the water and then start sucking air. My main hope now is that raising the tank will have increased the pressure enough not to need the shower pump
 

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