Shower switch short cable

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The switch on my electrical shower has stopped working, so I got a replacement, and when I went to change it, I couldn't pull the switch away from the box further than about 1cm. It seems that the person that fitted it pulled the cable back towards the consumer unit, and didn't consider the possibility of having to change the switch in the future.
Any advice as to how I might get the switch replaced, without removing the consumer unit, and having no access to the roof void above?
Shower Switch short cable.jpg
 
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1cm might be enough to get a screwdriver through, depending on which way the screws are pointing.

What prevents loft access?
 
Firstly, the cable will be thick and stiff, so are you CERTAIN you can't bend the wires down further, or pull any slack from above?

(Sorry to ask this, but best to make sure.)
 
1cm might be enough to get a screwdriver through, depending on which way the screws are pointing.

What prevents loft access?

I suspect it may be downstairs in a single story extension with the cable clipped to the ceiling joist.
I had something similar in my extended Victorian terrace many years ago. Managed to disconnect the cable then took down the switch unit and pattress box. Widened the cable hole and with a small torch managed to see the cable clipped to the joist. Managed to prise it out of the first clip with the help of a long screwdriver. This gave me a bit more on the length which helped to tug it out of the next clip. I now had enough 'slack' to fit the new switch but it was nerve wracking.
 
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One solution (a bit of a bodge but better than nothing) is to join the short wires together with 60amp connectors, and fit a blanking plate instead of the pull switch, and fit a 50amp dp wall switch at the consumer unit end.

Pointless, many would argue, but may get you out of trouble.
 
I think if you can fully isolate that and undo the screw holding that Earth in place at the front you may find there's more slack Godber?
 
I suspect it may be downstairs in a single story extension with the cable clipped to the ceiling joist.
I had something similar in my extended Victorian terrace many years ago. Managed to disconnect the cable then took down the switch unit and pattress box. Widened the cable hole and with a small torch managed to see the cable clipped to the joist. Managed to prise it out of the first clip with the help of a long screwdriver. This gave me a bit more on the length which helped to tug it out of the next clip. I now had enough 'slack' to fit the new switch but it was nerve wracking.
Yes it is in a single story extension, and they also left hardly any slack on the lighting rose, but I managed to change that as the wires were more malleable; it might be that the cables are similarly clipped to the joist.
There is about an 8cm gap to the wall, so I might be able to move it closer to try and get some slack. The shower is labelled as 9.5kW, so I bought a 45A switch, which I thought would be suitable, especially as it has the wire screws on the side of the base unit - does it need a 50A?
 
However, these are better as they have a base which attaches to the ceiling and to which you connect the wires, then the cover just fits over it.
https://www.toolstation.com/crabtree-50a-pull-switch/p34147
That would hopefully make it easier, although I notice from the reviews, "this is not a good replacement for a square box. It requires a good separation of in and out cables by a couple of inches (and these things are not flexible), like each side of a joist. Cable holes are small and on each side with not a lot of room inside." So would I need to widen the ceiling hole to get enough separation of the cables?
Also I was wondering how I might work out which cable is IN and which is OUT, as I probably won't be able to see how they were connected?
 
That would hopefully make it easier, although I notice from the reviews, "this is not a good replacement for a square box. It requires a good separation of in and out cables by a couple of inches (and these things are not flexible), like each side of a joist. Cable holes are small and on each side with not a lot of room inside." So would I need to widen the ceiling hole to get enough separation of the cables?
Just a suggestion; nothing is going to be perfect.

Also I was wondering how I might work out which cable is IN and which is OUT, as I probably won't be able to see how they were connected?
Note where (at least one of) the wires is attached.
 
That would hopefully make it easier, although I notice from the reviews, "this is not a good replacement for a square box. It requires a good separation of in and out cables by a couple of inches (and these things are not flexible), like each side of a joist. Cable holes are small and on each side with not a lot of room inside." So would I need to widen the ceiling hole to get enough separation of the cables?
Also I was wondering how I might work out which cable is IN and which is OUT, as I probably won't be able to see how they were connected?

Release the wires on one side first and push them to the side. Without twisting or turning the switch release the wires on the other side and push them to that side. Now lower the switch down vertically without rotating it. If you put the cables of one side to the right then look at the top of the switch, (assuming you still haven't turned or twisted it), and it will tell you wheteher they are the Feed or Load wires. You can now mark those 3 wires with F or L on the sheath so you know what ones they are.
 
Do you have a multimeter?
I do, so if it still works (it has been a while), then suppose I could test the wires for voltage, if I separate them, or put them in some connector block to be safe.
 
Release the wires on one side first and push them to the side. Without twisting or turning the switch release the wires on the other side and push them to that side. Now lower the switch down vertically without rotating it. If you put the cables of one side to the right then look at the top of the switch, (assuming you still haven't turned or twisted it), and it will tell you wheteher they are the Feed or Load wires. You can now mark those 3 wires with F or L on the sheath so you know what ones they are.
Sounds like a plan, and I suppose I could always double check them with the mulitmeter (if it works).

Thanks for the advice folks.
 
Of course, there is a chance the wires are burnt and need shortening.

Shower pull switches have a tendency of burning out, and as a result the ends of the wires get burnt to.

This is usually due to loose terminals and/or poor quality pull switches.

The Crabtree ones as mentioned don't seem to have this problem, if the terminals are tightened up properly - but, as said, they aren't easy to fit if you are changing over from a bog standard pull switch, particularly if the wires are too short to start with.
 

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