shower tray help
- Thread starter stardanny
- Start date
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Told you Dow or to be more precise
http://www.dowcorning.com/applicati...&N=0&bhcp=1&WT.svl=1&DCCT=PRODUCT&country=GBR
http://www.dowcorning.com/applicati...&N=0&bhcp=1&WT.svl=1&DCCT=PRODUCT&country=GBR
Cheap stuf under the tiles - then Dow on topTamz is right - silicone against the sides/ wall - then again after tiles
Yeah, yeah, yeah.... but WHAT silicone do you recommend ?
neutral curing if it`s a plastic tray... You wanna know ALL my trade secrets Sponsored Links
I looked at this topic because I thought it might help me with *my* challenge - and you have ! For which I thank you.
But - the REAL challenge is yet to come...
My tray is also 1600 x 800, but the room is 1660 wide, i.e. 30mm gap each end, and the tray is to go at the far end, with a 40mm gap between the tray and the wall, because of pipes coming up through the concrete floor.
How do you suggest I fill these gaps ?
I had thought either to fill them with cement mortar, or to spray in rigid foam, and run the thickness off over 250mm, the height of the (plain white) wall tiles.
OR
to fill the gap slightly humble of the top of the tray, and put a row of mosaic tiles almost flat along the edge of the tray - but the side gap is 40mm, the end gaps 30mm. How wide is a mosaic tile, anyway ? Would it look odd ?
Would it be better to have the 60mm gap all at one end (the shower end) ?
But - the REAL challenge is yet to come...
My tray is also 1600 x 800, but the room is 1660 wide, i.e. 30mm gap each end, and the tray is to go at the far end, with a 40mm gap between the tray and the wall, because of pipes coming up through the concrete floor.
How do you suggest I fill these gaps ?
I had thought either to fill them with cement mortar, or to spray in rigid foam, and run the thickness off over 250mm, the height of the (plain white) wall tiles.
OR
to fill the gap slightly humble of the top of the tray, and put a row of mosaic tiles almost flat along the edge of the tray - but the side gap is 40mm, the end gaps 30mm. How wide is a mosaic tile, anyway ? Would it look odd ?
Would it be better to have the 60mm gap all at one end (the shower end) ?
Knock a bit 2 x 2" dressed framing up (45mm x 45mm) and sheet with 12.5mm aquapanel. That will bring you in to the correct size and also hide the pipes. You need this size more for the screen unless you plan on hanging a curtain, the screen is the same width as the tray.
Hmmm... that's fine for a corner shower tray, but I'm not sure how I'm even going to get the tray IN, even without that stuff stuck to it...
And there's the gap (that I need, to hold it !)
It's a heavy beast, and where do I STAND ? I need some sky-hooks...
weak mortar mix? the tray has plywood stuck to bottom of tray and I can't get it off.
will there be a problem if I just sit tray on 1 inch plywood? and secure it with silicone on wall? Tray is heavy so it will not move.
Dan.
Hi Robinclay...
Is your tray from http://www.mx-group.com/index.php
With the plywood stuck to it bottom...?
Still needs to be bedded on mortar. If you don't and any problems with it breaking, and they do sometimes break if not fully supported, the manu will not entertain you.
The plywood base does not need to be level. The mortar will level it. When mixing the mortar add a squirt of fairy liquid to the mixing water. You need a good smooth mix and this will give a smoother creamier mix that is easy to spread. Don't try to level the mortar too much.It will compress and spread.
As above
This is the most difficult thing with trays of this size. You will need someone to help. unless you are a big bstard or want a back massage from the wife.
With a tray in a recess because of the size and weight of it it is awkward. Unless you can borrow or want to buy a couple of these
http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/p...ne-suction-glass-lifter-pad-triple-100kg.html
which will allow you to drop it in, then do as below.
Lay the cement base
Either line up the front of the tray with it standing on its edge and drop it gently into place
or lift the tray in to the back wall and stand on its edge. (Re-spread mortar over the footprints
)Drop the tray forward into position and push back and slide it about,tap it down until level across the top (you may need to rake out some mortar from the back to allow tray to go fully back).
How the waste work in will probably decide which way you do it.
Don't bother too much with the masking tape carry on. The mortar will wipe off the tray with a damp cloth after about 1/2 an hour.
Leave to set then pump silicone down around tray to hold it.
Btw if you are building a frame and the wall is brick use these to fix it to the wall
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11414/Fixings/Hammer-Fixings/Hammer-Fixings-8-x-100mm-Pack-of-10
You wanna know ALL my trade secrets
Fancy writing a book Nige
[quote="tamz";p="1552946] When mixing the mortar add a squirt of fairy liquid to the mixing water. [/quote] ... which also helps in the clean-up
I guess the mortar needs to be sloppy enough to flow out level, but not so sloppy that it flows out at the front !
I guess it would splash the mortar everywhere !
Might even break.
Thank you for taking the trouble to reply so comprehensively.
I'm still worried...
That would be nice ! Does she do a good one ? Is she pretty ?
I thought that might be a solution - but I guess it needs a smooth surface; the tray has a pattern to avoid slipping.
I had thought to place it on edeg on a batten, i.e. raise the front to about its correct position, then *lower* it, and then remove the batten when it's floating on the mortar.
I guess the mortar needs to be sloppy enough to flow out level, but not so sloppy that it flows out at the front !
Hah ! "Drop" the big bstard "gently" !?!?!
I guess it would splash the mortar everywhere !
Might even break.
-or even stand IT on its edge ?
Yeah, right(Re-spread mortar over the footprints
Thank you for taking the trouble to reply so comprehensively.
I'm still worried...
Hi.
Just a update, I've fitted it. I've had to use the feets as per to manu instruction for the tray so I can access to the trap and he doesn't like to have a access panel on ceiling below, oh well . I fitted feets onto plywood that was stuck to shower tray and we carried it upstair and to the bathroom and install it and level it.
Man, it is so heavy . About the weight of a cast iron bath. And I had to fit extra batten on joists to make floorboard stronger.
At the moment, I'm waiting for the tileman to tile the walls so I can come back and fit shower screen.
Dan.
Just a update, I've fitted it. I've had to use the feets as per to manu instruction for the tray so I can access to the trap and he doesn't like to have a access panel on ceiling below, oh well
. I fitted feets onto plywood that was stuck to shower tray and we carried it upstair and to the bathroom and install it and level it.Man, it is so heavy
. About the weight of a cast iron bath. And I had to fit extra batten on joists to make floorboard stronger.At the moment, I'm waiting for the tileman to tile the walls so I can come back and fit shower screen.
Dan.
Bravo !
Me, too !
Or rather, I got a plumber to do it
Man, it is so heavy
bath.
AREN'T they just ! Mine was about 150 lbs - that's why I got the man (and his mate) in to do it !
Mine's on concrete...
AND... I discovered that both its drain holes needed a trap & drain outlet ! I had thought I could just use one, with a blanking plug on the other - OH, No !
We filled the hole round the waste pipes with shingle, to support the tray, without making it too difficult to remove "next time". I *thought* they were going to put mortar over the shingle, but they didn't - I realised too late.
See //www.diynot.com/network/RobinClay/albums/
Me, too !
Though I suspect "Senior Management" and I will do the tiling.
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