Shower tray installation?

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I'm going to install a shower in my new bathroom. This is downstairs & has a concrete floor (tiles on top). The shower trays I've looked at would need a recess in the floor to accomodate the waste trap if the shower were laid straight onto the floor (not clever) or the tray mounting on some sort of base to raise it up.

What sort of base should I use & whats the best construction method?

Thanks.
 
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A section of timber plus exterior plywood or WPB on top, you may need at least 4"x2" to allow the depth of the trap
 
if you intend using the shower tray as it should be, i.e at floor level with very little step up, then you will need to break the concrete floor, deal with the waste then re-concrete the floor or channel.
 
Thanks. If I dig a channel into the concrete floor, it will obviously pass through the DPM membrane under the floor as it passes through the walls to the outside drain. Won't that cause problems?
 
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Thanks. If I dig a channel into the concrete floor, it will obviously pass through the DPM membrane under the floor as it passes through the walls to the outside drain. Won't that cause problems?

Gary - the channel is only likely to be max 75mm where the trap is located (use a low level shower trap) and about 50mm for the pipe run, so it's unlikely you're going to break through the membrane as the slab should be thicker than this. Use an angle grinder/diamond blade combo to cut channel borders, chisel centres away. Use a core drill to pierce the wall. Only use solvent weld bits and use a top fit trap. Dry fit waste, trap, tray to ensure all line-up; a little squirt of builders foam will seal around pipe/wall and hold pipe/trap in place. Lift the tray, check the foam has set, fit trap seals, bed the tray as per manufacturer's instructions (consider using flex floor tile adhesive if the makers suggest sand/cement mortar) then from above tighten-up the trap to the tray.
 
Gary,
If you decide to build a timber frame using 4x3 and marine ply bed the tray on a silver sand/lime mix if using a stone resin tray. If you use tile adhesive it could crack if the timber moved slightly.
 
You could fit an archimedes waste pump and the tray can then sit on the floor without chopping or building a platform.
I have fitted quite a few in the past and they have the advantage of using small bore waste pipe...15 or 22mm.
google them.
 
Gary - stuart wrote "If you use tile adhesive it could crack if the timber moved slightly." - absolutely correct. Which is why I suggested flex floor tile adhesive (flex = flexible) which won't crack.

Of course, you could always use an Easy Plumb Shower Tray, tackle designed to be installed ON a solid floor without having to cut any channels ... the trap & pipework being accommodated within the height of the tray. Available in quadrant or square, various sizes. Any decent plum merchant or even Screwfix.
 
The problem is how do you get to the waste trap if it's leaking?
 
Gary - masona quite correctly identified the major issue ... "The problem is how do you get to the waste trap if it's leaking?". Well first thing to do is ensure correct installation and join pipe with solvent cement (don't rely on rubber Johnny seals 'cos they'll fail some years in the future ... they all do!!!) With an Easy Plumb jobby you gain access to the trap via a removable panel which is an integral part of the design, hence it's the perfect solution to solid floor situations.

Even with the 'channel out' method access is still possible ... extend the trap cut-out beyond the tray footprint to allow for below tray hand access. Cap/cover this extension cut-out level with surrounding floor.
 
I don't think there is any need to disturb the existing floor at all. It is quite common to step up 200 to 250mm into the shower. There are shower trays available with adjustable legs, which have sufficient room underneath the actual tray to install a "bath trap" which is shallow, and is made for the specific purpose of going under a bath. Choose a tray with the waste near the front. This makes it easy to maintain in future.

Choose the correct parts and there really isn't a problem here at all.

Beeches.
 
It is quite common to step up 200 to 250mm into the shower.

whether it is common or not is irrelevant - it's still a bodge.

showers are a convenient way to wash, doing away with a large step in and out as with a bath. also very popular with the elderly.

only a lazy buffoon would raise it up in the air! :rolleyes:
 
Hi Gary,

Firstly, ignore the diatribe above. It contributes nothing to your query.

If you haven't already fixed your shower, I suggest you visit a David Wilson show home. I know there is at least one near Ashby. Have a look at the shower installation.

Also, go to http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/shower-trays-55-0000, click on Coram and follow through to the video showing how to install one of their Coratech trays.

Beeches.
 
Gary,
There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods.
I had an old plastic shower tray on legs. I replaced the shower this year with a stone resin tray. As the waste is about 3 metres from the gully and the pipe work was already in the floor I built a timber frame. I had to raise it about 6 inches off the floor.
The mother in law finds it difficult to get in to and so she isn't so keen to come and stay now. That is the main advantage of this method.
My wife agrees with noseall that I am a lazy B.
 
Gary - Beeches wrote "Also, go to http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/shower-trays-55-0000, click on Coram and follow through to the video showing how to install one of their Coratech trays". In other words an Easy Plumb Shower Tray type, as per my earlier post:
"Of course, you could always use an Easy Plumb Shower Tray, tackle designed to be installed ON a solid floor without having to cut any channels ... the trap & pipework being accommodated within the height of the tray. Available in quadrant or square, various sizes. Any decent plum merchant or even Screwfix."

We rest our case :LOL:
 

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