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Shower wall isn’t plumb. What thickness of adhesive is acceptable to build it out?

Discussion in 'Tiling' started by ToastyToes, 13 Feb 2020 at 6:39 PM.

  1. ToastyToes

    ToastyToes

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    Hi all,

    my shower walls got plastered and I have installed an Ardex waterproofing system to the shower ready for tiling.

    I’ve gone to start the job and noticed the bottom of one of the long wall is about 25mm out from the ceiling. There is also a bit of a belly in the middle of the wall. (Old Victorian house).

    Tiles are 750x750 and the wall is 1600 long.

    Is it acceptable to build up the adhesive by 25mm to level the tiles? If not, could you recommend a better solution?

    thanks
     
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  3. ToastyToes

    ToastyToes

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    Wall in question:

    0DE781F0-6606-4E80-933D-FE522B36A89A.jpeg
     
  4. plastic_peanut

    plastic_peanut

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    I have just had to look up the Ardex product, roll on waterproofing?

    25mm seems extreme personally, can you not use something like an elements tile backer board. Level that up and tile on to it directly?

    As it is out at the bottom perhaps less risky in building it out. i would remove the belly in the middle so you have a flat surface and then fit a Batten from where it is most level and then build it out below that once the tiles above have been installed and set
     
  5. ToastyToes

    ToastyToes

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    Yes, this is the product. https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/ardex-wpc-waterproof-protection-system-10kg

    I
    am not sure I quite get your suggestion in regards to the batten.

    I could install a backerboard to the wall to level it, but the shower tray has been installed and I’m not sure if be able to level the wall without the backerboard protruding the shower tray too much.

    I might need to completely remove the waterproofing and plaster to give me space.
     
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  7. plastic_peanut

    plastic_peanut

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    Overhanging the tray shouldn’t be a problem but I guess it depends by how far and can you maintain an even gap to the tiles down the length of the tray.

    May be easier to skim the wall again rather than fighting and reworking what you have. Difficult really to gauge without seeing it first hand.

    I think you would regret not spending the time on the preparation of the wall before tiling however
     
  8. bobasd

    bobasd

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    i think that you've fitted the tray too soon - depending on the enclosure, and the dry walls that the wet walls will run into ie. you need flat, plumb planes to correctly set the tray and its waste. and have a plumb tile backing for the enclosure jambs

    you cant pull out 25mm and make up to a bulge by skimming - in fact, best not to skim wet walls period.
    as it is, you will be constantly trying to catch up with the bond or plumb lines, and you'll find it almost impossible to fold the tile around the inside corner and leave it looking respectable.

    maybe it would be best for you to go back to brick?
     
  9. ToastyToes

    ToastyToes

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    yes I’m considering taking it back to brick, but I’m not sure what would be best to level it.

    I’m thinking a rough bind coat and then 6mm backerboard screwed into the wall to get a finished level and plumb wall.

    I will have to re-waterproof it too.....
     
  10. bobasd

    bobasd

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    ok, then building up from back to brick, you should pull out the backing render plumb flat, and in plane with any dry walls on either side.
    you will now have both walls brought to single in-plane surfaces.
    you can now tile off the render backing - no problem.
    extend the tile beyond the tray and enclosure jambs.

    i cant see your job, but for me, the tray should come out and be exactly, and correctly, re-positioned to blend in with the backing render.

    use 4:1 sand & lime mix for render, take up brickwork suction before applying.
    float finish or use a block of wood.
     
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