side flue?

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Hampshire
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Hi,

I am having a new boiler installed in a single storey kitchen extension, the original plan was for it to go near the end of the room on the party wall in a standard kitchen wall cupboard, the flue would then come out of the top turn towards the back of the house and go through the wall facing out into the garden (flue 300 from boundary and window)..

(The originally planned boiler was a Glow Worm 24Hx)
However when the plumber came to measure up the floor wasn't in and I've since worked out that even if the flue comes out only 25mm below the soffit the boiler will be too low for the kitchen cupboard - now one option is just to put up with that and try and put in a full height cupboard or box it in or something similar.. however this wouldn't 'look as good' I was wondering:

1) if any body did a condensing boiler with a side exit flue (rather than top or rear) that would fit in a kitchen cupboard.

2) This is replacing an old boiler with a conventional flue up an old chimney - can fan assited flues go up a bendy, 5/6m run through an old chimey? if so what would the plumber need?

3) What's it like putting in a flue through a pitched roof and how well can this be sealed? It's a 'recently finished' concrete interlocking tile roof with a breatheable membrane and kingspan insulation between and under rafters..

:confused: thanks for any help..

Trev
 
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your best option is your last idea. 300 from boundry, and 300 from openable window is a no no anyway. Your CRI will know this.
through the pitched roof no problem.
 
thanks, was starting to lean that way and hoping it wasn't an issue :) I take it leaks and such shouldn't be a problem if done properly?

Out of interest though, I thought 300 was the min for both of those? (horizontal to boundary/window) is it the combination that is the issue?
 
I dont know of any model with a side exit flue yet.

The complications of exiting from a pitched roof are considerable and its very questionable that its permissable the way many installers do it. This arises because unless its a steep roof it has to entend horizontally to give 300 mm clearance underneath it.

A vertical flue can be taken through a pitched roof but the terminal normally has to have 600 mm clear around it. The bits concerned are quite a lot more costly and it has to be done very professionally to ensure it does not leak.

There are now a couple of boilers which have a two pipe flexible flue whihc CAN go up and existing chimney. This is a recent offering and others may know which makes but not for G-W.

Tony
 
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A lead flashing with gaitor, has never fialed me, use these as standard practice on any pitched roof.
Take your point Tony, but should'nt the RI know this, RE: flue positions.
Craig.
 
sorry, my fault, wrong terminology :oops: , I haven't spoken to the installer yet as I couldn't get him on the phone earlier. I posted on here because I've found this site very helpful (I have been on the Electrics forum asking various questions) and I wanted to examine options that maybe my installer might not mention and get more than one opinion on going through the roof etc/ find out if anyone had heard of a side exit flue on a boiler..

The installer originally discounted going up the old chimney (maybe on cost grounds?) and I thought I read somehwere that it could be done.. He is corgi registered

as for the distances from the window/boundary, I haven't measured them but the installer has and said it would be okay, I only quoted 300mm as it's what I saw in the glow worm documentation and quoting them was my method of saying that issue was covered.. (obviously I was mistaken on the distances but I am curious about why/how from an interest point of view..)

I imagine the flue would be going through the pitched roof vertically (was only going horizontal to go through the back wall ) The cross section of the roof is a short ish pitch section dropping down from a flat roof, not sure if this affects going through the pitch section as the nearest ridge would not be much higher than the point where the flue exited the roof - perhaps beneficial for the 600 mm clear around the terminal?


thanks for all the help and sorry for not being clearer about the installers credentials,

Trev
 
Clear enough to me, "plumber" being the expression most people use for us GI's.
verticle the way to go.
Not sure about the G-W though thats only my opinion.
 
clf-gas said:
Not sure about the G-W though thats only my opinion.

would be interested in hearing of alternative condensing boilers that fit in a kitchen wall cupboard.. thought about signing up to which as they did a comparison report, but the last time I did that I payed the subscription fee for a year before I got round to cancelling it! :rolleyes:

any pointers on going through the roof? Agile, you mention the bits being more expensive.. is that by about a £100 or many hundreds.. also, I built the roof myself (steel/timber/tiling etc.) and I guess am what you might call a 'competent DIYer'.. (am sure you might think of other names for it :) ), am I allowed to fit the external section of the flue or does it all have to be done by the corgi registered installer?
 
Its the flue thats more expensive, flashing with gaitor <£10 the lot <£100.
as for boilers most will fit in cupboards, as for brand we all have our favorites. me im a WB greenstar fan.
 
ta, am happy to pay an extra hundred ish to keep my kitchen layout as planned

any specific problems with the G-W or just don't seem as high quality as others?
 
What kind of boiler are you fitting, it's not a combi is it. The only combi boiler I've heard of that will fit in a kitchen cupboard is one of the Ideals, most others are too deep.
 
clf-gas said:
300 from boundry, and 300 from openable window is a no no anyway. Your CRI will know this.

Your 'CRI' or RGI would refer to the MI, and for most fanned flued boilers its a yes yes, providing it's not opposite the boundary and meets with Approved Document J.
 

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