Silicone around bathroom wash basin

[Merlin5]

Hello guys. I'm new to re-doing silicone, never used a silicone gun in my life. I spent some time yesterday removing clear silicone from my very small bathroom wash basin. Hard work and none of it came off in one piece, very bitty. And then I put No Nonsense sealant remover on which helped me get rid of residue on the tiles and basin.




Is it advisable I now spray it with my HG Mould before replacing the silicone? And then I was going to clean the area with my 70% Isopropyl Alcohol which I believe is good for making sure new silicone will adhere properly.

In what order shall I do all this? I'm thinking like this order below or is it overkill?

1.Soap and water to clean away the sealant remover
2. Dry it
3. Spray with HG Mould
4. Wipe it away with water
5. Dry it
6. Wipe on IPA
7. Let it evaporate properly
8. Do the silicone.

Secondly, I watched videos and I was going to smooth out a bead with my finger dipped in soapy water. However, I was advised this by someone on another forum, (not DIYNOT):

"Get a Fuji or similar silicone profiling tool for the new bead. Concave beads promote water retention and ultimately mould. You want a proper profile which sheds the water away."

So should I not use my finger and if not, will the Unibond tool in my second photo be sufficient, the bit with the cutoff edge? Thanks.

 

[Iamchamps]

If your a silicone newb practice on something first it is a lot harder than it looks to make it good and you only get one go before having to remove it all again.

The fugi tool is excellent for first timers and would recommend it if you want a professional looking finish.

 

[Merlin5]

Yeah, I'll practise on something first. But what about the tool I have, using my finger and water retention?

 

[Iamchamps]

I only just noticed the tool in the picture it has a similar edge to the fugi which does not need a finger just the tool. However it’s hard to gauge how big that tool is from the picture I think it will be too big and make a really fat line.

 

[Merlin5]

I agree, it does look a bit big. I can't find a single Fugi tool to buy without buying a whole kit. Sooooo, how about this Diall one from B&Q?

https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-smoothing-sealant-tool/1642133_BQ.prd

Looks like a Fugi one I think.
Says "Includes a choice of three easy-change profiling guides: 90°, 6 mm x 45°, 16 mm x 45°."

I can go and pick it up before they close if you think it looks good?

Edit: I understand what a concave profile looks like now. I'm gonna pop out to B&Q now, that tool should be fine.

 

[Iamchamps]

I agree, it does look a bit big. I can't find a single Fugi tool to buy without buying a whole kit. Sooooo, how about this Diall one from B&Q?

https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-smoothing-sealant-tool/1642133_BQ.prd

Looks like a Fugi one I think.
Says "Includes a choice of three easy-change profiling guides: 90°, 6 mm x 45°, 16 mm x 45°."

I can go and pick it up before they close if you think it looks good?

Edit: I understand what a concave profile looks like now. I'm gonna pop out to B&Q now, that tool should be fine.

That tool looks fine, toolstation does a similar more expensive tho - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p4...MIvKKZj4qJ3gIVrZPtCh2CtwWUEAQYBiABEgJPZ_D_BwE

Practice on something quickly so you know what to expect then go for it. Good luck

 

[Merlin5]

Thanks Iamchamps. Only the smallest angle will work on my sink. Here's what it looks like against the joint. Is it ok and should I pull it back at an angle like my second photo or keep it
vertical like in the first photo? Also, does it matter which face of the plastic is in the direction I'm going in?

 

[Iamchamps]

Keep it vertical

Thanks Iamchamps. Only the smallest angle will work on my sink. Here's what it looks like against the joint. Is it ok and should I pull it back at an angle like my second photo or keep it
vertical like in the first photo? Also, does it matter which face of the plastic is in the direction I'm going in?

View attachment 150348 View attachment 150349

It shouldn’t matter to much if you keep it vertical or at a slight angle. If the line doesn’t look right you can quickly go over it again while still wet. Try not to put to much down as the excess soon builds up on the tool and you need to wipe it off or it starts going everywhere.

Try it on something quickly so your happy with your technique. You will be a silicone master in no time.

 

[Merlin5]

Hah, yeah it would be nice to get good at this as I want to do around the bath next.

I'm not sure what I can practise on though. Maybe the inside joints of a stiff cardboard box?

 

[lostinthelight]

I would say thats too much silicone to work in one hit and lay and let set a root filling bead first?

 

[Merlin5]

I would say thats too much silicone to work in one hit and lay and let set a root filling bead first?

I've no idea what you just said, can you elaborate?

 

[lostinthelight]

I've no idea what you just said, can you elaborate?

With a 10mm spatula there would a large amount of silicone to work.If you ran a smaller bead in the bottom of the joint and let it go off it would be easier to do the finished bead?

 

[Merlin5]

With a 10mm spatula there would a large amount of silicone to work.If you ran a smaller bead in the bottom of the joint and let it go off it would be easier to do the finished bead?

Ah I see. That makes it more complicated for me. I was going to cut the nozzle to 10mm, the same size of the profile edge. Should I cut the nozzle smaller first, run the smaller bead, then cut the nozzle again to match the profile? And do I smooth the smaller bead before letting it go off or just run it there and don't touch it?

 

[lostinthelight]

Cut the nozzel small enough to keep the bead right in the bottom of the joint, you could use that to get a feel for the job, no need to smooth it .Make sure you clean tiles and basin, I use meths
Edit:
probably best to use the spatula opposite side to the bevel

 

[lostinthelight]

https://www.wacker.com/cms/media/publications/downloads/6300_EN.pdf