Single column of brick between door frames

[iwilson16]

How do I best repoint and/or strengthen this single column of brick between 2 door frames? If I scrape out the mortar below any brick then it's likely to fall.

It's got old crumbly lime mortar between the bricks. I plan to batten the walls before plasterboarding. There will be a new stud partition going up to put back the separation between these two rooms, but I think I'll need to fix the end plate between between the floor and roof joists as this part of the wall unlikely to provide adequate support.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Rather than battening that bit between the doors, brush as much loose off as you can then dot and dab it but go heavy on the adhesive and use 12.5mm board- it'll stiffen the wall up no end.

 

[seasickstevie]

After brushing off the loose, as obnd said, I'd dampen it, and PVA it before dot & dabbing. Maybe some would disagree, but I'd feel more assured that way.

Also if you mark off (on the door frames) where the pieces of timber are, after your pb is fixed you could get some long screws through your first stud straight into the existing timber.
And help the stud-to-plasterboard with some No-Nails (or similar). But make sure the stud is pulled to the wall, not the other way around.

Btw, I like the zip-up polythene. Not seen that before.

 

[noseall]

Fixing the end stud will serve to stabilise that panel of bricks.

Fix noggins between the ceiling joists - one at each end and one every 800mm or so. You may need to do something similar with the floor joists. Fix your end stud to both the ceiling and the floor nog's and pop a fixing through into the timber lintel. Once you pop a couple of fixings into the panel of bricks it will all stabilise.
If the masonry were hopelessly knackered we'd just fettle them out and pop a few uprights of 4" x 2" in there and re-secure the casings to the studs.
If we were building that opening from scratch we'd have bridged both doors with a single span lintel and made good the gap with studs.

 

[iwilson16]

I dont want to dot-n-dab ... really want studs to make it easier to put up shelving, add electrical sockets etc.

noseall - yes, the plan is to put 2x4 noggins between the roof joists to fix the top plate to. The bottom plate is more of a problem. This is an old Edinburgh flat, so the space between the floor joists is filled with 'deafening' ... a 150 mm layer of old clinker topped with mortar (Victorian sound/thermal insulation) Its supported by thin battens (approx 3" wide) nailed to the underside of the joists.
The floor is to get a 22mm plywood sub-floor, then laminate. So for the bottom plate I had planned to just screw the top plate to the 22mm ply. However I guess I could remove all the deafening from between these two joists only, add 2x4 noggins, and then pack in some sound insulation material.

I like the idea of using the end plate to support the wall (as opposed to the other way around). As noseall says, I could fix it to the top and bottom noggins, as well as the timber lintel. Maybe I could also use construction glue between it and the bricks to stabilize the bricks?

There is a 275mm gap between the door frames. As well as the 90mm end plate (centred), I'll need 3x2's just inside the door frames to support the plasterboard. So 275 - (90+63+63) leaves approx 30mm between the 3x2's and the 4x2. I guess if I plasterboard the partition first, then the plasterboard between the partition and door just needs to span approx 18mm unsupported.

Ian