Skoda roomster oil warning light on but oil level is ok

[d.o.n.]

Ive recently got a skoda roomster 1400cc 3 cylinder diesel (2008 model)
My Mrs uses the car daily as a runaround for the kids and recently when starting the car roughly 10 seconds after starting the oil light comes on but the oil level is ok.

Engine sounds a bit noisier also than what it used to-it is drivable but obviously I don't want to drive it incase it seizes.
I'm thinking might it be the oil pump failed or blocked or maybe chain that drives the pump maybe snapped-is there any common problems with this model engine.

Any help much appreciated

 

[Burnerman]

If the oil pump drive has failed, then there wouldn't be any oil pressure at all - ever, not even initially. Sorry I don't know any issues with this particular motor but if the oil pressure is critically low then there will be significant damage to the camshaft and crankshaft and the engine would be knocking to the point of destruction.
What mileage are we looking at here - and is there any record of a recent oil and filter change?
John

 

[d.o.n.]

Hi.

The car has done 103k miles.
The Car does sound louder than normal but not excessively loud with slight lack of power.
There's plenty of oil in the engine & water level is fine,no smoke at all from exhaust
I'm guessing the car would run for a short while if the pump or drive chain to pump failed-this is why I've only started it momentarily.

I'm wondering if some of these models suffer with pump or pump drive chain problems.

 

[Burnerman]

I suspect that its the oil pressure switch itself which is the problem....here's my reasoning:
If the oil level is good, then the cylinders and pistons would survive, at least for a while, courtesy of the oil splashing around.
However, the crankshaft and camshaft rely totally on a supply of high pressure oil and their shell bearings would certainly be destroyed by now and the noise would be truly horrendous.
If the car was mine, I'd replace the oil pressure switch and try again.....if this didn't satisfy things then I'd go for an oil pressure check on the engine at a garage. For sure, I wouldn't want to run the engine any more until these tests were made.
John

 

[d.o.n.]

Hi.
I totally agree with you.
I've spoken to a couple of guys who have basically said try the switch first as I'm guessing they are only pounds to buy rather than hundreds and as you say try the pressure test also as these are fairly simple cheap jobs to do.

How long do you have to run the engine for to do the pressure test-I'm guessing only about 1 minute as I've said previous I do not really want to run the engine or at least for no longer than a minute or two incase in totally seizes.

I'm also wondering why it's down on power which I'm thinking if it was the pump which I'm having suspicions that it still is that it would not be supplying oil to the camshaft which would in turn if they are hydraulic tappets that they would not operate the valves fully thus would make it down on power but would of thought the crankshaft would be getting bathed in oil

Anyway I'm hoping to try and tow it to a mechanic midweek to let him do these tests and will report back

Any further suggestions much appreciated

 

[Burnerman]

If an engine has a pressure gauge fitted, as soon as it starts the pressure will register (maybe 60 psi cold or whatever) and if that's the case you can run the motor as long as you like.
If the gauge doesn't register then stop the engine immediately.
Just to dispel the odd myth....the crankshaft doesn't bathe in oil - it would snap if it was allowed to contact the oil in the sump. Its pressurised oil that keeps it happy and the oil that the bearings throw clear then splashes on the bores and the piston undersides.
For sure, low oil pressure will prevent hydraulic valve lifters from fully extending which will cause a rattle and a power reduction.
Please post back with any findings, just don't run the engine until it gets to the garage!
Fingers crossed its the pressure sender!
John

 

[d.o.n.]

Cheers John.

I've just bought a new oil pressure switch brand new off eBay for £7 delivered so will be getting that midweek so will pass this onto the mechanic and as I say I'll report back towards the end of the week as to the findings.

I've heard via the Internet that some of the other model skodas and vws suffer with oil pump and oil pump drive chains so thats what's steering me towards that but may be totally wrong but hopefully as I say find out late next week..

Cheers
Don

 

[DaveHerns]

I've read about Audi 2.0 diesels with oil pump drive problems and wasn't there a VW engine which relied on the crank pulley being torqued up to some amazing figure to drive the oil pump?
You could just remove the pressure switch and spin the engine over on the starter and see if any oil spurts out of the hole.

 

[d.o.n.]

Mechanic guy has had the car 2 weeks and only managed to do an oil pressure test and it is zero so im definetly thinking it is either the chain or drive sprockets stripped.

Does anyone know how easy or hard it is to remove the sump-would it be drop the exhaust off and drop the oil and basically remove several sump bolts..!! Or is there more to it..

 

[Burnerman]

The sump needs to drop around 4" or so, if the exhaust prevents this then it will have to be removed.
The sump comes off when the bolts are removed and there isn't a gasket - just sealant if I recall from other VAG engines.
Bad luck, this one but let's know what you find!
John

 

[DaveHerns]

How far has it been driven with no oil pressure? I'm wondering how much damage will have been done to the crank and cam etc.

 

[Mursal]

Consider a secondhand engine or at least the bottom half, if the light was on for any length of time, with the engine running?

 

[Burnerman]

I think I'd be knocking off a big end cap or two, just to have a look see after this!
John

 

[d.o.n.]

quick update.

I picked up the car from the first mechanic who has had the car over 2 weeks and only managed to do an oil pressure test and said it had no oil pressure so I've taken it to another mechanic who within a day has stripped off the sump
And found the oilpump drive chain snapped and is going to do a bit more stripping down of balance shaft assembly which I believe is just bolted beneath the crankshaft I'm guessing.
He said if the shells are knackered it might be easier to get a second hand engine.

 

[Burnerman]

OK I'll stick my neck out here!
It's likely the big end and main bearing shell bearings have suffered due to lack of oil pressure.
It's unlikely, due to the short time that the oil supply was insufficient that the crankshaft has been damaged - it takes much longer than this.
So....down to cash, considering the need for a shell bearing replacement - I'd hunt around for a replacement engine, if one is available - your quandary of course is to assume the replacement engine is a good one
What do you think?
John