Slate roof - issues with abutment to keystone and gable end

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Hi all

Need some help and advice with the roof of my 1907 farmhouse. Bought the house last August and have a slate roof that buts up to keystones on the main part of the house. Also have a gable end extension that also has a slate roof.

So, have the following problems:
1. On the main house, the area where the slate but up to the keystones has been 'sealed' with a cement fillett. The cement has not parted from the slates and the stone and is pretty easy to pull away. I've replaced the cement on 2 of the 4 edges. But after reading some sites today, it looks like cement filletts aren't a good option and that I should be going for lead soakers etc. Only issue is that the total length of the 4 edges between tiles and keystone is about 20 metres. So, feels like the lead option might be expensive. I think that I'd also need to cut into the keystone to provide an anchor for the lead that sits atop the soaker.

2. On the extension, the slates at the gable end (of the extension, not the main house) don't currently have any dry or wet verge protection. I'm not quite sure what to do wth these slates, since the roof structure beneath them seems quite complicated (to me anyway).

What I have is a gable end wall made of two different materials. I have a six feet wide original stone wall that's about 15 inches thick on the right hand side (facing) of the gable end. The rest of the wall is brick and is lined up to be flush on the inside, so is recessed on the outside from the thicker stone wall. (The wall was originally all stone, but fire damage resulted in part of it being pulled down and replaced by brick.)

On the outside of the wall, I have a rafter that runs along the top of the stone wall to the apex of the roof. This rafter is flush with the outside of the stone wall, but has a gap between it and the recessed brick wall. On top of the rafter, I can see the sarking boards that sit under the tiles. The tiles, sarking and rafter are all flush and there has histrorically been a fascia board that has been screwed into the rafter, but which has sat below the sarking and tiles. So, essentially the sarking and tiles have been exposed without any verge protection.


So, if yo're still with me, it would be good to get advice on:
1. Whether I should bite the bullet with the lead soakers etc or if replacing the cement will do, even for a few years.
2. What I do with the unprotected verge.

Thanks in advance.

Brian
 
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1. Whether I should bite the bullet with the lead soakers etc or if replacing the cement will do, even for a few years.
2. What I do with the unprotected verge.

1. Without a second thought, use lead because a cement fillet will be next to useless. However, without a piccie it is hard to determine how the lead will sit against this so called "keystones"?

2. Again a piccie will speak a thousand words as it is hard to pick up what your saying from written description alone. It sounds to me as if the finishing work to the verge detail has been given very little thought.
 
Cement fillets have worked perfectly well for 100's of yrs.

Stirling castle for example.

View media item 32743
You dont need lead soakers, your other option would be a secret gutter.

Be aware also, Roofing methods and practices differ slightly from England and Wales due to our more extremes of weather.
 
Cement fillets have worked perfectly well for 100's of yrs.
Cement fillets have also broken down in a matter of days.
I will not get into a pi ssing contest with you Alistair but any movement on a roof and the fillet is fooked. I dare say there are instances where a cement fillet may work. Ho, hum.

If i had a choice between lead and a cement fillet..... :?:
 
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You also may find in the detailing of the clubstone When the mortar fillet is removed, The sand/lime stone is recessed to accomodate the infill of mortar.
 
Cement fillets have worked perfectly well for 100's of yrs.
Cement fillets have also broken down in a matter of days.
I will not get into a pi ssing contest with you Alistair but any movement on a roof and the fillet is fooked. I dare say there are instances where a cement fillet may work. Ho, hum.

If i had a choice between lead and a cement fillet..... :?:

Indeed mortar fillets have been known to break down in a very short time scale...if done incorrectly.

There are thousands of instances where cement fillets do work, most of the older slated buildings north of the border to be exact.

Roofs always move, the structural elements will remain static...which has no detrimental effect on the weathering of the fillets.

I will not get into a pi ssing contest with you Alistair

As this is my area of expertise !!!!

This is not a point scoring exercise!! there is enough of that rubbish on this forum as it is. :confused:
 
So how come architects are not falling over themselves to use such a reliable, cheap (***** proof) product?

Do architects recommend cement fillets north of t' border because i have not seen them specified doon ere.
 
So how come architects are not falling over themselves to use such a reliable, cheap (***** proof) product?

Do architects recommend cement fillets north of t' border because i have not seen them specified doon ere.

This method of weathering an abutment would be both unacceptable and impracticle on a modern building.

As stated previously the club stones were cut in such a way as to accomodate a lime mortar or mortar fillet.
Working on older buildings/monuments this method is still specified by the Architects and or preservation officers from the national trust for Scotland.

The original question from the op was is it an acceptable method! to which the answer is yes.
 
och aye the noo, yeah!!. :mrgreen:

Did they have sbr in the 13th century? :?:
 

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