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Slow drip from pipe under combi boiler

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by lovelyhead, 24 Jan 2014.

  1. lovelyhead

    lovelyhead

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    I have a slow drip on one of the pipes going into my Combi boiler. We just moved into the house this week so don't know how long it has been like that. I have included a photo of the place it is leaking. Is it safe to tighten it up?

    [​IMG][/img]
     
  2. Gasguru

    Gasguru

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    That looks a rough old job....diy or illegal worker.

    Have you any paperwork for the boiler?

    The isolating valve is partially closed...it should be fully open..who touched it? - You need to see whether the drip is from the valve spindle or the connection just above.

    Make/model of boiler would be useful...Vokera/Sabre/Procombi at a guess.

    That safety valve pipework doesn't appear to be joined properly either.
     
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  3. DP

    DP

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    [quoteThat safety valve pipework doesn't appear to be joined properly either.
    [/quote]

    Just as well. If the PRV goes, at least unsoldered pipe will make the job easier :D
    Hate nothing more than all soldered pipe that allow no after installation repairs, though use of elbows here is a little naff:cool:

    Bet the installer does not know what a pipe lender looks like.
     
  4. lovelyhead

    lovelyhead

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    Thanks for your replies.

    How do I open the isolating valve? It must have been the previous owner who touched it. The drip seems to be coming from the outside of the joint rather than the little bit in the center.

    It is a Vokera Connect 24.

    The previous owner had a safety check done last year by Scottish Gas and it passed.
     
  5. GavThePlumber

    GavThePlumber

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    Get someone out, you do not want to be the last person who touched this boiler, if you are selling up.
     
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  6. lovelyhead

    lovelyhead

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    We just bought the house.

    How do I go about opening the isolating valve?
     
  7. Gasguru

    Gasguru

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    Use a spanner and turn it to the same position as the left hand valve. Touching isolating valves is always a gamble...they can start leaking from the valve stem.

    The safety valve pipework should be soldered and preferably a compression fitting installed to enable the pipework to be easily disconnected for maintenance.

    Dry off the valve and use a strip of newspaper to see exactly where the leak is, may just need the nut above tightening a little.


    A gas check is a lottery....few are done properly.
     
  8. Whitespirit66

    Whitespirit66

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    PTFE tape under the compression nut on left. My money says DIY.

    Is the benchmark cert completed in the back of the boiler's instructions?
     
  9. GavThePlumber

    GavThePlumber

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    Seriously now. Do not touch it.
     
  10. GavThePlumber

    GavThePlumber

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    PTFE on all of them, olive or thread :LOL:
     
  11. Gas2Air

    Gas2Air

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    I do hope that the piping on the right isn't to the gas valve. :D
     
  12. GavThePlumber

    GavThePlumber

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    Nah, that is piped in non barrier (just out of frame), more oxygen, more spark, more SEDBUK.

    Right :confused:
     
  13. Whitespirit66

    Whitespirit66

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    The pipework reminds me of a jobbing builder I used to know. When he did bathrooms or kitchens, he used to do his own plumbing, but never used a bender or soldered joints. Everything was done like this boiler, in compression.

    Must have spent a bit on fittings over the years. :LOL:
     
  14. newbuildinstaller

    newbuildinstaller

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    Iv not met one of them, how long can you keep the pipe for?
     
  15. lovelyhead

    lovelyhead

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    OK so the pipe work is a bit shoddy. Is it safe though? Also how much roughly would a plumber charge to replace the two isolation valves?

    Thanks
     
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