Socket in back of wardrobe

[Louis.]

I'm fitting some pax wardrobes and will be fixing them onto the wall. I've a socket behind which im wanting to put into the wardrobe.
I'd planned on removing the faceplate from the socket, cutting out the wardrobe and using longer screws to internally mount the socket face plate to the backbox.

This safe?

 

[johnny2007]

No

 

[jj4091]

Why can't you just cut a hole in the back of the wardrobe to give access to the socket where it is. Or if you don't like that idea then drill a hole for a cable to go through and plug an extension lead into the socket. Still trying to think what use a socket in a wardrobe would be though.

 

[johnny2007]

But you could use a pattress box of suitable depth to make the socket stick out enough.
Cutting a hole in the wardrobe and leaving the socket there would probably be best as jj4091 suggested.

 

[Louis.]

Just out of interest, if the wardrobe is fixed. Why can't you do that
The back of the wardrobe is flat to the wall and only mm's thick.

 

[Louis.]

Why can't you just cut a hole in the back of the wardrobe to give access to the socket where it is. Or if you don't like that idea then drill a hole for a cable to go through and plug an extension lead into the socket. Still trying to think what use a socket in a wardrobe would be though.

I'll be having lights inside the wardrobe, and if to standard they need to be accessible if wardrobes built in.

 

[JohnW2]

Just out of interest, if the wardrobe is fixed. Why can't you do that .... The back of the wardrobe is flat to the wall and only mm's thick.

To be honest, I'm personally far from convinced that you couldn't - I've seen plenty of flush sockets in wood panelling and wood-clad walls, which is essentially no different from what you are suggesting.

Some may be concerned because 'wood is inflammable', but I think that probably conunts as 'scraping the barrel'!

Having said that, it might be simpler (roughly as has been suggested) to simply drill a hole to take a cable, connect that cable in the existing backbox (with a 'blank plate' over it) and then connecting to a socket on a surface-mounted pattress within the wardrobe.

Kind Regards, John

 

[johnny2007]

How's the back of the wardrobe flat to the wall?
Don't you have skirting boards?
Furniture shouldn't be attached to walls, otherwise there's a risk of condensation and hidden mould build up.

 

[Louis.]

To be honest, I'm personally far from convinced that you couldn't - I've seen plenty of flush sockets in wood panelling and wood-clad walls, which is essentially no different from what you are suggesting.

Some may be concerned because 'wood is inflammable', but I think that probably conunts as 'scraping the barrel'!

Having said that, it might be simpler (roughly as has been suggested) to simply drill a hole to take a cable, connect that cable in the existing backbox (with a 'blank plate' over it) and then connecting to a socket on a surface-mounted pattress within the wardrobe.

Kind Regards, John

My thoughts went straight to panelled walls too. I have no issue removing the back of the wardrobe and plugging straight into an existing plug, but a faceplate internally would be 100x neater.

How's the back of the wardrobe flat to the wall?
Don't you have skirting boards?
Furniture shouldn't be attached to walls, otherwise there's a risk of condensation and hidden mould build up.

The wardrobes are sat raised on a plinth with the back of the wardrobe touching the back wall, so no skirting. I'll be drilling vent holes in the back and the top to allow air to circulate reducing condensation and mould.

It's also on an internal wall so should be limited to regulated temperatures.

 

[Louis.]

This thread basically covers what I had planned on, without an extended backbox.

Adding a socket to a wardrobe door

Hi, I'm currently in the process of installing an IKEA Pax open wardrobe into our built in wardrobe space. There's a socket inside that will be covered by the sides of the new wardrobe. Is there any way I can incorporate this? Do I simply cut a hole in the wardrobe side and add a dryline box...

www.diynot.com

 

[big-all]

my thoughts

the back is likely to be 3.2mm thick and perhaps 25-30mm from the wall' iff you remove skirting perhaps 10-15mm
with the cord support beneath the plug and the raised base may prevent plug insertion easily without stressing some plugs
a small extension with say 4 sockets fixed to the side may be more practical as it can be fixed at any height or front to back or even under a shelf so looped cable hangs out the way

 

[JohnW2]

If people are II would personally say 'unnecessarily') worried about the 'wood' with what the OP proposed, he could always use a spacer (or two) that 'extended' the backbox through the rear wall of the wardrobe (and longer screws) ...

 

[jj4091]

I'll be having lights inside the wardrobe, and if to standard they need to be accessible if wardrobes built in.

Why do you need lights in a wardrobe it's not as though they are a particularly deep dark cavern.Never felt the need for a light in a wardrobe in 50 years. Not trying to shoot you down just save you time, effort and expense.

 

[JohnW2]

Why do you need lights in a wardrobe it's not as though they are a particularly deep dark cavern.Never felt the need for a light in a wardrobe in 50 years. Not trying to shoot you down just save you time, effort and expense.

I have lights in (above the doors)( of a couple of my built-in wardrobes. They are about 1 metre 'deep (from door to back), and a lot taller than the door, and it can therefore be pretty dark inside them, particularly at night when the only light is coming from the room's ceiling.

 

[securespark]

Some may be concerned because 'wood is inflammable', but I think that probably conunts as 'scraping the barrel'!

There are "Heritage" style accessories made out of inflammable timber.....