Sockets In Garden

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Hi.
I am having my rear garden landscaped and at the same time taking the opportunity to install garden lights and a water feature.
As I want to get the landscaper to bury/pave over the armoured cable I would like to know whether or not the circuit I am planning meets current regulations, as once in place it would be difficult to rectify.
I plan to run a feed to a 13amp socket direct from the main Consumer unit, into which will be plugged a RCD and a timer. I then plan to run a Radial Circuit (pluggrd into the timer) using 2.5mm Armoured Cable to feed 2 Single Weaterproof Sockets and 2 Double Weatherproof Sockets. the length from the Consumer Unit to the final socket being in the region of 35-40 metres.
I then plan to feed the lights and water feature (both mains voltage) by simply plugging into the sockets and running standard twin + earth cable (in plastic conduit) to the various fittings via light sensors.

I would appreciate any comment on the above proposed installation.

Also. another question. Not all of the garden lighting will be installed at the same time. If Istart out with say 2 lights and then have the installation certified, do I have to get further certification for the next set of lights or feature I 'plug in'.

Thanks
 
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since you will be plugging the circuit in, you are exempt from part P. best way to wire the lights is connect each light tot he armour. some have room to do this, otherwise use a weather proof box and a cable from this to the light. best keep socket and lights on seperate circuits/cable
 
Thank for the reply. Seems strange that if I hard wire it to the Consumer Unit the installation would be notifiable, but exempt if just plugged into a socket. Afterall, it's the same kind of dangerouse stuff thats in the cables!
Regards
 
proby said:
I then plan to run a Radial Circuit (pluggrd into the timer) using 2.5mm Armoured Cable to feed 2 Single Weaterproof Sockets and 2 Double Weatherproof Sockets.
And the very best of luck with terminating 2.5mm² SWA into a plug...

I then plan to feed the lights and water feature (both mains voltage) by simply plugging into the sockets and running standard twin + earth cable (in plastic conduit) to the various fittings via light sensors.
1) I suppose that having managed the SWA (and do please post a photo when it's done), putting T/E into a plug will seem a doddle. Do check though that the waterproof sockets will remain waterproof when asked to cope with T/E, as they are designed with the entirely reasonable assumption that people will be using flex with their plugs, not T/E.
2) Even in conduit, T/E is not really suitable for use outside.

Also. another question. Not all of the garden lighting will be installed at the same time. If Istart out with say 2 lights and then have the installation certified, do I have to get further certification for the next set of lights or feature I 'plug in'.
And the very best of luck with finding someone prepared to "certify" a lash-up like this - they might be more inclined to try and certify you...

Why not do it all properly?
 
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Why not do it all properly?

simple. £££££££££££££'s

saw a couple in b&q the other day, walking out. Looked like they were going to have the best protected cable ever with what they had on their trolley. SWA, coping stones, steel conduit. :eek: And the guy was trying to explain the the missus that they dont need glands with this cable cos they are using steel conduit. They didnt have any fittings for the conduit, so how he figured that out ill never know. Also heard one of b&q's advisors telling someone that "this junction box isnt designed for 45A, the only one we do for shower circuits is these henley blocks, but you could try a wholesalers". Good advice, i thought.
 
The ODPM have told me that if there is (and I quote) "an existing connection point" in the garden, then anything wired to this point would not be notifiable.
 
I'm sure they have, and I'm pretty sure they weren't thinking of an example like this, but that doesn't matter.

What we have here is someone bodging a solution in order to get round the requirements to notify. It doesn't of course do that, as I'm pretty sure that buried SWA counts as a fixed electrical cable, whether it is connected to the supply via a plug or by screw terminals.

But I am dying to see the photos of the plug once he's wired it up... :LOL:
 
Surely this solution isn't that different to those "Armadillo" outdoor sets that claim to be compliant with regs etc? Apart from terminating the SWA obviously - I think some sort of box might make it easier!

Although the cable itself might be "fixed" the circuit isn't as it's plugged in and protected by maximum 13A fuse. I would hope the same logic would apply as to any power cord/extension cable that has been cleated to a wall/skirting board etc etc. The work proposed is safer than just sticking an extension cable out of the window to run stuff in the garden off of - which would be perfectly legal !
 
As predicted we see more extensions and semi-permanent temporary tat-stuff as a result of part P, and in reality the overall risk rises not falls. Personally I think it is safer to break the law but do a well engineered job, if you must, but that is not the correct legal position..
SWA into a box at one end, with a cable gland and plug at the other might do, making a lead with a bulge.
I've seen T & E into a 13A plug top - 2.5mm is possible, but certainly not waterproof - but then neither is flex.
Lidl had on special offer last month, and probably will again soon, what I can only describe as a tent peg + double socket box, which came with a long length of blue flex as the cheap solution to the probelm or garden power - hammer in the peg, trail the cable and switch on - job done. I suspect we'll see plenty of those in the future.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
proby said:
I then plan to run a Radial Circuit (pluggrd into the timer) using 2.5mm Armoured Cable to feed 2 Single Weaterproof Sockets and 2 Double Weatherproof Sockets.
And the very best of luck with terminating 2.5mm² SWA into a plug...

terminate the armoured to a short extra wire under heatshrink and take it into the plug alongside the flex like arrangement of the packing and inner cores and i think you could do it.
 

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