soil pipe to stack questions

[richierich81]

Hi,

I have received some excellent advice on here so far, and with that encouragement I have decided to have a go at replacing the soil pipe that joins the cast iron soil stack.

I just wanted to check everything I have picked up on so far.

I intend to first Remove the existing lead 3.25" soil pipe, by sawing it in small sections(I am guessing it is heavy!).

Then make good the joint into the cast iron soil stack, people have mentioned about there being to a brass thimble that`s caulked into the branch of the stack - see the "lump " on the pipe
Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/replace-soil-pipe.341632/#2551296#ixzz2AmjOJz6n

Can I just double check is this the small lump in the pipe here?

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• richierich81
• 30 Oct 2012
• 1

Will this require heating to free? Or can I simply just saw it and remove it?

Then I will use a fernco connector for the new 110mm plastic soil pipe to the cast iron stack, are these angled? How do I seal the join? Because clearly I will need to angle the pipe slighlty more than the old pipe as it is going to be higher up (slighlty above the old pipe pictured).

Then I will use an angled 87.5 degree elbow into the house, where I will run a further length of 110mm soil pipe through the cavity. How to I make the join? between the elbow and the 110mm pipe? Is this using silcone sealant?

I will then connect to the pan using a standard flexi pipe.

Does this sound correct?

Thanks again Richard

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• richierich81
• 13 Oct 2012
• 3

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Leave the brass thimble in situ, getting it out the cast will require a fair bit of heat, and still leave you with a new puzzle of how to connect to the cast socket. Cut the lead back to the brass thimble, the lead is fairly heavy (but not as heavy as the cast!), and file off the cut edge. You dont want any sharp/rough edges where waste can catch and build up.

The Fernco connector is designed to make a joint such as this, but make sure you purchase appropriate size. It'll slip over the thimble, other end over the new plastic spigot, and tighten the jubilee clips to seal the joint.

I would use a standard straight WC pan connector on the outlet of the pan, the finned end will fit into a 110mm plastic spigot. Fit 110mm plastic through the wall at appropriate height. Outside, use a 90deg bend, then either a 45deg bend (or adjustable 110mm bend if 45deg is the wrong angle) to join to the new pipe to the Fernco coupling. The 110mm fittings have a rubber seal inside the collar, lubricate this with some silicon lubricant and push it on to the end of the 110mm pipe.

It is vital to chamfer any cut ends of the 110mm pipe with a file before attempting to fit them into a socket, failure to do so and/or not lubricate the seals will result in the seals being displaced and the joint leaking!

 

[richierich81]

Thank you so much for your help, just what I was looking for, I owe you a pint or two

Off to the plumb centre tomorrow to pick up the bits I need thank you again for your help and Nigef

Cheers

Richard

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Do yourself a favour and go to somewhere like Screwfix or Wickes, your wallet will thank you for it. I'd suspect you'll be paying somewhere like 4x the price at the other outlet you mention unless you have an account with them!

Alternatively a local independant plumbers merchant, but they're still unlikely to be able to compete with Wickes or S/fix.