Solid dot n' dab

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We need to re-finish our bathroom walls to take tiles and paint after taking them back to bare block work.

Ideally, I would wet plaster, but I'm not 100% confident I'll get a good enough finish.

Dot and dab is an option, or baton and screw. But they both leave a hollow sounding feel to them and as all the walls are solid block work, I would like to keep that solidness.

Is there a way of doing 100% adhesion plasterboard fixing to the wall? Imagining something like gripfill and screws, but less cowboy like.

Cheers,
Fubar.
 
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Ok, slight change of question here.

I'm now thinking I'll baton the walls out by at least 10mm and shim where needed to get batons level. and fit plaster to that.

Couple of questions.

1) is 10mm enough, or would I be better looking to use 25mm? Trying not to shrink the room too much.

2) Would it cause any problems if I put expanded polystyrene sheet between the batons to provide some insulation and make the walls feel a bit more solid by removing the voids behind the plasterboard.

Cheers,
Fubar.
 
You could get 22mm (finished)polystyrene back plaster board and dot and dab them on your walls and increase the amount of dabs you put on the wall so the muck spreads out more making it less hollow. Make sure you use a good solid straight edge to knock the boards against the wall and check them for plumb as you do it.. Allow yourself about an inch off the floor with the boards (Put 2 pieces of board on top of each other at the l/hand side and at the r/hand side let it go past the board so the next one sits on it. I usually mark all my boards out and cut them to suit and number them and hold them in position and draw a line down the edge of each board so you know where they go. Put the dabs on the wall so they pick up the next board and work left to right around the room.. ;)
 
I have fitted Celotex between battens on my external walls and they do feel solid if you tap them, this is 50mm board but the difference shouldn't be that great.
 
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Hey, cheers guys. Didn't realise the pre-bonded stuff was only 22mm, sounds dandy. Would there be any advantage in screwing through the dabs into the block work beyond as an extra mechanical advantage?

Will need to tank round the bath/shower unless they do pre-bonded in water resistant too.

Only possible problem I can see now, is that I'm not skimming the plasterboard. Will probably go for lining paper with a few layers of eggshell paint. Don't think it'll be a problem. Anyone with any experience of these things?

Cheers,
Fubar.
 

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