Solid surface countertop - how hard to cut & how to cut?

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Hi all

I taken delivery of a 1.2m solid surface bathroom worktop which needs to be cut to allow a semi-recessed sink to be fitted.

How difficult is it to cut???

It was expensive so I'm worried about trying it myself albeit I'm pretty decent at most DIY tasks barring electrics & plumbing, I leave that to the professionals.

The two recommended fitters have 3 week lead time before they are available

The sink comes with the paper profile and I'm happy to buy the tools required to do the job.

So, thoughts please??
 
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you need a decent jigsaw that wont wander out off control
how much do you have to play with as a lip to cover any chips or mistakes
 
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you need a decent jigsaw that wont wander out off control
how much do you have to play with as a lip to cover any chips or mistakes

Hi Big-all

Not sure what you mean about a lip unless you describing how a sink sits in a Hole,

Here's a photo of the sink I'm needing to fit



I'm happy enough to buy the tools to do the job and take my time as long as I buy the right tools which I'm guessing as you've already stated a good jigsaw and possible a router too??
 
Ahhhh Big-all I think I understand you now,

I'll have a look at the sink to see if there's a recess around the sides.
 
You should not need both, though a jigsaw blade will wander thru thick material.The link for the jigsaw is a 110v version, the router need to be 1/2" if its to take suitable cutting blade [kitchen worktop blades only come in 1/2"]
 
For solid surface you need the biggest 1/2in router you can get hold of - the trade guys go for 2000 watts and over because solid surface soaks up power. Small routers just overheat and die quickly so let your tools cool off between cuts. You can rough out with a jigsaw but don't be surprised if the blade bends in cut. A circular saw is preferable, but whatever you do don't attempt a plunging cut unless you have a proper rail saw and a proper guide rail because otherwise you are risking a major kickback and possible injury. Blades should be fine tooth and in the case of jigsaw blades should ideally be made for plastic or be at least wavy set metal blades. Run at low cutting speed and high feed rate to prevent swarf melting back onto the surface and marking. Use a P3 dust mask with goggles and ideally dust extraction because the extremely fine dust which comes off solid surface from machining can cause respirator problems. Solid surface materials are relatively soft and mark easily so try to protect the surface with masking tape wherever you are going to run tool bases.
 
Just an update,
Purchased a jigsaw, router and importantly a facemask and took my time marking out etc.
Followed the instructions and templates provided and proceeded to perform my first ever worktop and plinth cut out for the sink.

It appears to have gone ok, I'm happy with the results and will post in my running thread in projects

Again thanks to all for the advice.
 

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