Solid wood floor on Concrete

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We've original wood block floor in 2 rooms and carpet in the hall.

Closer inspection has revealed some roughly laid wood blocks under the carpet in a poor state and, under that, a tar paper style DPM and some uneven concrete.

So, whole lot to come up and a wood floor to go down. Don't want to contemplate trying to dig all the old concrete out so i need to level it.

I suspect it will be damp so will i have to go through the full rig marole of the layers of primer and screed as above or could I get away with latex? Should I consider some engineered wood instead of solid wood planks to better deal with the probable damp?

Any tips greatfullt received.
 
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Hi BigTim

There are various options: but whatever you choose, screed/concrete/levelling compound does need time to dry out, don't force that.
As for ways of installing you could also opt for the 'floating' method. Use a combi-underlayment (DPM + sound-insulation) on concrete/screed and glue all T&G's. This method is also possible with not too wide solid floorboards as long as your room isn't wider than 5 - 6 meters.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks W-U-L.

Have read so much conflicting advice. My friendly builder come fitter says floating, but the floor supply place has said to screed the floor then use all in one adhesive and DPM stuff to stick it down.

I fancy this solution for the reason that it will add the least to the depth and the floor's at a higher level than the other rooms already so don't want any more of a step. Solid oak tongue and groove flooring I like is 18mm. Would say this'll be OK?

Planning to do the job in a week's time so really should get the wood bought and home for some acclimitisation. Is this too short a time?

I suppose a night or 2 away while various things go off (screed, adhesive, wood stain) is in order as we've a 14 month old and the floor is in the hall so can't be avoided.
 
Best advice I can give you in this is to allow for sufficient time between applying screed and installing the floor.
Too soon and your floor starts buckling straight away (in two - three days that is)
Latex also contains moist, read the instructions carefully and keep to them.
 
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Sounds a bit like a silicon based adhesive to me (like SikaBond T54).
But I would never trust a product that 'guarantees' to work both as a DPM and an adhesive.
(I trust Sika Bond T54 for glueing wood when underfloor heating is involved, never heard Sika claiming it's also a DPM).

so wondering what brand this product is that has been recommended?
 
The Sika bond Primer is very good indeed also (and 'expensive ;) - but quality 'pays')
 
Oops! Not checked back for a few days.

The "all in one" as the chubby lad at the wood shed described it is "instafix" which floors2go sell.

He said that's what their fitters use..

Now not so sure of this advice. Picked up the flooring today - solid oak 15mm, need about 6m2 but got 4 packs (circa 8m2) to be on the safe side.

It's sitting in the adjacent room acclimatising. Once the old floor is up I level and, once dry, check the moisture level. CL says if it's low enough then this adhesive is fine by itself if not then I'll get a DPM and float the floor.

EDIT:
To make things harder for myself, I've gone for unfinished Oak and so will be having to treat it once down. Was thinking of using an "easy oil" product but concerned about the dirt it could pick up in this high traffic area. Can't take the time to varnish and want an oiled type appearance (as per the other rooms) so, perhaps a wax product?
 
Dont think you have been given the correct advice ! First dont consider doing any floor levelling etc until you know the base floor is sound + dry. If you level first and you do have moister problems, you may end up making it worse. You could lay a sheet dpm and float. But if you are doing this, you dont need adhesive!
 
mattysupra said:
Dont think you have been given the correct advice ! First dont consider doing any floor levelling etc until you know the base floor is sound + dry. If you level first and you do have moister problems, you may end up making it worse. You could lay a sheet dpm and float. But if you are doing this, you dont need adhesive!

Cheers MS. Didn't really think the CL at f2g knew his stuff.

http://www.floors2go.co.uk/products...product_id=614&variation_id=1866&search_term=

Doesn't mention anything about acting as a DPM but the CL said that's what they do - put it down, wait until it's tacky and stick the wood on top. Second bloke at another f2g did say this could only be done of the moisture level wasn't too high.

So moisture check before levelling. If moisture too high then seal as per your instructions above and then screed?

I heard that floating on a DPM if there are moiture problems just means moiture collecting on the dpm (due to condensation) and so seeping into the wood?
 
ignore what you heard. If you have any questions ask me or make a post on the forum. If someone else answers the post and i dont answer it, it means it was answered correctly. There are a couple of people on here who answer correct and others who dont have a clue. You can trust anything that woodyoulike answers! They have very good knowledge of wooden flooring. You may also benefit by looking at there website. Anyway have you purchased your adhesive?
 
Thanks for the tips MS.

Only got the wood so far, waiting on my builder mate to return from hols before damp testing and working out what to buy to fit this stuff!

I suppose unless the old concrete is very dry I will be needing some sort of DPM (liquid, sheeting or underlay) before/after levelling. N.B. the floor is *very* uneven at the moment and I've not lifted the carpets yet to see how bad it is. Variation in height from heighest to lowest possibly 15mm. So it looks like a lot of screed and some plywood in one doorway (kitchen) to keep the level up as it dries

I'd really like to stick or secret nail the floor down if poss to minimise the extra height and to give a solid feel as per the other rooms (parquet stuck down with bitumen).

Beginning to feel I've bitten off a lot here :( and can see why the previous developers just stuck some cheap carpet over the lot to hide it.
 

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