Squeaky Auxiliary Drive Belt - Need Some Help Please! (WITH VIDEO)

[Lionheart]

Hi guys!

I have a 2008 Volvo V50 2.0 D (automatic). I'm having some issues with a squeaky aux belt and need some help...

Here's a video of the problem:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mk4fua9obq...queak.avi?dl=0

Looking at the pulleys there is a noticeable 'wobbling' on the crank shaft pulley, but doing the water spray test on to the underside of the belt stops the squeak, so I believe that the crank shaft pulley bearing is all ok and more likely an alignment issue?

You can see at the end of the video I put a metal rule on the crankshaft pulley and the pulley to the right (air con) is aligned pretty well. When I do the same for the tensioner there is a noticeable gap.

But not sure if the tensioner can be adjusted backwards/forwards (i.e. in/out) and worried if I adjust that then the alignment with the next in the chain (alternator) will be misaligned.

Put it on a Volvo forum and they suggested just replace the belt. But I'm concerned if this wobble is being caused by an alignment issue then a new belt would not solve the issue???

Any help much appreciated

 

[Lionheart]

Sorry, here is the link that works...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mk4fua9obqzx3u3/Volvo Belt Squeak.avi?dl=0

 

[Burnerman]

Take the aux belt off by putting a spanner on the tensioner bolt, levering against the tensioner spring and then really grip the crankshaft pulley.....maybe the centre bolt is slack or the pulley itself is starting to break up....not unknown!
John

 

[Lionheart]

Hi John

Much appreciated - thank you.

I have removed the belt and started the engine with it off, and the crankshaft pulley has exactly the same amount of wobble as when the belt is on.

I'm assuming that the crankshaft itself cannot be bent causing the wobble as the engine would be screwed and not run right, so I'm thinking maybe the crankshaft pulley itself has perished (the rubber part) and it's now warped/out of balance?

I should also try tightening it up just in case! But how do you lock it to stop it turning?

I need to get it to 50nm which is factory spec. I do have air tools, but cannot get 50nm so will have to torque wrench by hand - but the whole pulley will just spin (?) so how do I lock it???

 

[Burnerman]

You can lock the crankshaft by sticking the car in 4th gear and applying the foot brake - obviously with an assistant!
If the crankshaft bearings were worn the engine would knock horribly and there'd be oil hosing out of there too.
John

 

[Lionheart]

That sounds ideal.

One thing - I have an auto not manual so unable put put into a high gear. Will D (drive) do??

Why a high gear BTW?

 

[DaveHerns]

With an auto you'll have to remove the starter and insert a bar in the ring gear to stop the crank turning. I'm sure the torque isn't 50nm as that's nothing much and even my Aldi compressor and impact wrench would shift that. You'll probably find the crank pulley rubber insert has failed

 

[Lionheart]

WOuldn't putting the screwdriver into the vent on the disc against the caliper be enough to stop it turning? Maybe a second person in the car pressing the brakes?

I checked in Vida today and it said 50nm for that centre bolt. I'll check again tomorrow in case, but agree that's not big torque. Maybe they are tight due to having thread lock on??

 

[Burnerman]

Sadly that won't lock the engine.....a screwdriver in the ring gear is the way to go, but if you have air tools you should be able to shock the bolt free. If you suspect thread lock ( quite likely) then heat the bolt up.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

But surely not 50nm on a crank pulley bolt?

 

[Burnerman]

On a single bolt system I'd double that.....and use Loctite too.
John

 

[Lionheart]

I checked the torque setting in Vida (Volvo workshop software). Yes, you are right. It says 50nm, but I guess that's just to hold it in place as it then later says:

Stage 1: 70nm
Stage 2: 60 °

So it's 70nm plus 60 degree's.

In Vida they do not give instruction for only removing the crankshat pulley. It is amongst the full process for replacing the cambelt...

Looking at Vida they remove the starter motor and also the engine mount on one side using a frame from above the engine bay to support the engine.

They then use locking tools like you mentioned.

That would definitely work, but I don't have those locking tools for one, and that's a LOT of work just to remove that pulley for two.

How about using the air impact gun without locking it at all? Do you think it will just turn the pulley? The instructions warn that the crank should only be rotated clockwise, which is a pain for trying to undo it!!!

 

[Burnerman]

An air wrench won't spin the crankshaft, it may move it a couple of degrees, that's all.
John

 

[Lionheart]

Hey John

Tried my air gun. It's a sealey and has maximum torque of 600nm. BUT it's struggled with wheel bolts at 110nm before (!!!) Didn't get near removing it.

I've just upgraded my air compressor to a 14CFM 90 litre model, and upgrading my wrench to a KS Tools Monster which is 1,690nm.

I received the replacement pulley, and new bolt. The bolt comes with nut lock already on it (dry) as expected.

You mentioned heating the bolt up if it had nut lock. Would this make the bolt head more likely to shear off?

Just a little worried.

I assume Volvo, when they changed a cambelt 3 years ago as this pulley is removed and refitted, just did it up with an air gun. And their air gun would be a lot more powerful than my old gun, but hoping the KS Tools Monster will be somewhere nearer. But worried about shearing the head off. It's a meaty bolt, but you never know.

 

[Burnerman]

No, the bolt head wont shear off.....just heat it up and be patient for the heat to soak through to where the sealant is.
Be lucky!
John