Update on newbie doing Drive belt progress, need further help please

No, the handbrake only works on the rear wheels, unlike the Citroen BX which did have a front wheel handbrake!
The tightness of the engine mounting is irrelevant to any power loss but if cables etc have been stretched then I can’t possibly tell.
Are you happy that the turbo pipes are ok? The car has the sort of mileage that could indicate that the turbo, or its actuator could be playing up.
John :)
 
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I wonder if you’ve jacked it up so high that one of the intercooler pipes has disconnected?
 
My thoughts too.....I’ve seen this engine in a Saab and the pipes were bulging with the pressure.
The noise was unmistakable though when one disconnected.
John :)
 
No, the handbrake only works on the rear wheels, unlike the Citroen BX which did have a front wheel handbrake!
The tightness of the engine mounting is irrelevant to any power loss but if cables etc have been stretched then I can’t possibly tell.
Are you happy that the turbo pipes are ok? The car has the sort of mileage that could indicate that the turbo, or its actuator could be playing up.
John :)

Can you please tell me how to change the turbo (joking )

I have a basic code reader and also a better equipped car diagnostic tablet, the car diagnostic tablet that I nbought from Ebay hasn't been working for a while because now it asks for a network key ( has phone number on the message that doesn't seem to exist when I call it )

I tried the basic code reader on it today and it came back as code p0100 , something to do with the maf sensor. I suspected this right away because I had maf problems on a previous car which displayed similar symptoms and also I suspected it was the maf because I felt I was squashing things down when putting air box back on. So I guess it's good it isn't turbo related.
In fact this car engine has been superb , I have driven 60k in it and it has never broke down or let me down engine wise, always passed mot no emisiions problems which not bad at all for a car almost at 200k, also when I change the engine oil it takes about 2000 miles of driving until it goes black whereas some car's have an oil change and the oil goes black witihn days.

what should I suspect them in relation to the p0100 code error? thanks
 
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My thoughts too.....I’ve seen this engine in a Saab and the pipes were bulging with the pressure.
The noise was unmistakable though when one disconnected.
John :)

Hey friend, I hope you are well and I appreciete you

I have a basic code reader and also a better equipped car diagnostic tablet, the car diagnostic tablet that I nbought from Ebay hasn't been working for a while because now it asks for a network key ( has phone number on the message that doesn't seem to exist when I call it )

I tried the basic code reader on it today and it came back as code p0100 , something to do with the maf sensor. I suspected this right away because I had maf problems on a previous car which displayed similar symptoms and also I suspected it was the maf because I felt I was squashing things down when putting air box back on. So I guess it's good it isn't turbo related.
In fact this car engine has been superb , I have driven 60k in it and it has never broke down or let me down engine wise, always passed mot no emisiions problems which not bad at all for a car almost at 200k, also when I change the engine oil it takes about 2000 miles of driving until it goes black whereas some car's have an oil change and the oil goes black witihn days.

what should I suspect them in relation to the p0100 code error? thanks



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Well, the P0100 code is generic for a mass air flow problem......I’d check the electrical connections to the MAF first and then clean it very carefully with an appropriate spray.
No guarantees though, you may have to gamble on buying a replacement.
John :)
 
Well, the P0100 code is generic for a mass air flow problem......I’d check the electrical connections to the MAF first and then clean it very carefully with an appropriate spray.
No guarantees though, you may have to gamble on buying a replacement.
John :)

Hi,
before I even used the code reader I assume it was maf related, the symptoms were all there from a previous car with maf issues.
On my previous car a so called mechanic asumed the code menat bad wiring, he cut the wiring right off and lost the bit he cut off, It ended up with an intermittent serious maf issue for 18 months trying to find the wiringl oom and trying time and time again soldering in differet looms to no evail it would just fail to pick up speed or get to a certain speed and then hit a flat spot would not go any faster unril turn engine off and restart.

On this car I am hiping it will be a much simpler fix, I don't think the maf is bad because the maf issue/code happened after squashing down on the wires, I think I have done something to the wiring .
I can't see it being a bad/dirty sensor as this hasn't happened in 3 years I've had it, no maf problems with maf at all until a few days ago I was putting a lot of pressure of the maf wiring forcing the air box back on.


wyen you said you'd start with the electrical connections first, did you mean the bit that clips onto the maf sensor ?
any further thoughts on this ? cheers
 
I like my vectra, it has parking sensors front and rear from standard I believe and they are very good at accuracy. I have had it 3 years and it's had a few jobs the biggest being the Dual mass flywheel and clutch but that is a consumable anyway as on most cars and baiscally notihng else major has been done, I got the cambelt and water pump replaced about 46,000 miles ago and will be getting them replaced again in about another 10,000 miles.It is a large practical and economical car for it's age, I'd say it acgieves about 40 - 45 mpg around town and 60 + mpg on long motorway journeys and combined around 50 mpg

 

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I have had it 3 years ......I got the cambelt and water pump replaced about 46,000 miles ago and will be getting them replaced again in about another 10,000 miles.
Definitely shouldn't need the cam belt and water pump replacing after just a few years and 56,000 miles.
 
Definitely shouldn't need the cam belt and water pump replacing after just a few years and 56,000 miles.

I understand your thinking, I understand 100,000 is more the span of a cambelt and water pump kit. However these engines are apparently very common for water pump seizing at 40,000 miles which ni turn often takes out the timing belt, there are pages after apges about it across different forums and many taxi drivers have had the same engines with premature water pump failure taking out the belt.
Even the haynes manual states replacement at 40,000, it adds the lifespan of the belt is 100k or thereabouts but due ot waterpump design replacement is recommended at 40,000.
However I aim to have it done once it gets to 60,000 miles old. I don't rev it high I often drive the car in low rpm's usually no more than 2.5 - 3 rpms.
I had it chaged at 151,800 and before that it was apparently done at 96,000 or so , so it lasted around 55,000 miles on that occasion.
 
Lets deal with the handbrake first.
As you have the cable disconnected right now, pull the handbrake on, and then release it again. Then, get under the car and see if you can pull the inner cable out at all......it should be perfectly free to move. If you have to pull the cable hard - maybe using pliers - then it needs to be renewed.
You say you have replaced the calipers so we are ruling those out.

Regarding the lack of power, I would suspect a turbo problem really and it could be a good idea to get that checked out. I assume the engine management light isn't on?
You need to check the large diameter air pipes leading from the intercooler to the turbo, to see if one has been blown off.
John :)

Hi John
Going back to the power loss issue

The maf code hasn't shown again on my basic code reader but maybe it would with a more advanced diagnositc tool, my table diagnostics is for some reason asking for network key so can't use that. (no engine light on but I think the bulb has blown it never illuminates not even with engine off and ignition on )
I think it might have come on the 1st time because I unplugged it while taking out the air box.

The car will hit a flat spot, I have been on the motorway and once it got to 70mph it would not go any faster even with the pedal right down, after 20 seconds or so it will pick up speed. It is almost always happening when going up a hill or in 2nd or 3rd gear, after I press down the accelerator for a few seconds it will pick up speed and seem to maintain a steady speed until I stop and take off again or approach and drive up another hill.

The symptoms are extremely similar to my previous car with maf problems, plus I put sqashed down on the maf wiring too hard when putting air box in so I feel sure it's related to the maf or wiring.

I remember that I loosened the battery connection leads when testing which way was too loosen the ratchet I am not sure if I properly tightened the leads tight enough back on the battery, could that cause the power loss ?

thanks
 

Hi friend !

The maf code hasn't shown again on my basic code reader but maybe it would with a more advanced diagnositc tool, my table diagnostics is for some reason asking for network key so can't use that. (no engine light on but I think the bulb has blown it never illuminates not even with engine off and ignition on )
I think it might have come on the 1st time because I unplugged it while taking out the air box.

The car will hit a flat spot, I have been on the motorway and once it got to 70mph it would not go any faster even with the pedal right down, after 20 seconds or so it will pick up speed. It is almost always happening when going up a hill or in 2nd or 3rd gear, after I press down the accelerator for a few seconds it will pick up speed and seem to maintain a steady speed until I stop and take off again or approach and drive up another hill.

The symptoms are extremely similar to my previous car with maf problems, plus I put sqashed down on the maf wiring too hard when putting air box in so I feel sure it's related to the maf or wiring.

I remember that I loosened the battery connection leads when testing which way was too loosen the ratchet I am not sure if I properly tightened the leads tight enough back on the battery, could that cause the power loss ?

thanks
 
Try starting the car up then unplugging the MAF and see what happens.....I don’t think your symtoms are so typical of a MAF sensor failure, but what do I know?
Tighten the battery terminals first......the alternator will definitely fail if one comes loose.
John :)
 
Try starting the car up then unplugging the MAF and see what happens.....I don’t think your symtoms are so typical of a MAF sensor failure, but what do I know?
Tighten the battery terminals first......the alternator will definitely fail if one comes loose.
John :)
hi
I tightened the battery terminals but it still drives the same with power loss, it is not constant power loss it is when going up hills etc and sometimes on motorway when putting my foot down it won't accelerate ove ra certain speed but I keep the accelerator pressed in it finally afte a long time will go faster.

If I disconnect the maf plug how will that let me know it is the cause, what should it do when I disconnect the maf
 
Basically just see if there's any difference in the car's performance in any way - either on slow or fast running......no harm will come to anything.
If there's no difference I still suspect a turbocharger issue.
John :)
 
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