Stair handrail

Joined
13 Jun 2015
Messages
92
Reaction score
7
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi guys.

hoping for a bit of direction…..

I have a wall mounted stair handrail in my house (built 1997). The stairs is a U shaped so the handrail is in 5 parts.
The paint job on it was shocking and difficult to sand. So I thought I’d use a heat gun and because I didn’t want loads of mess I decided to remove it.

so far so good, except I split the last piece removing it from the wall.
Try as I might. I can’t find anything even remotely resembling what I have.

it’s like a moulding that’s mounted to another piece of timber to make it stand off the wall.

I’ll quite happy replace the lot with something similar but all I can find is mop and pigs ear. I’d much rather keep it similar to what it is now.

any suggestions?

pics attached
 

Attachments

  • 8C0EFE2C-0449-495C-AD47-35A90AF18CA8.jpeg
    8C0EFE2C-0449-495C-AD47-35A90AF18CA8.jpeg
    143.2 KB · Views: 67
  • 95266A14-4D37-410E-BAA5-4DFD2F9C812D.jpeg
    95266A14-4D37-410E-BAA5-4DFD2F9C812D.jpeg
    329.3 KB · Views: 64
Sponsored Links
Joined
14 Mar 2006
Messages
19,524
Reaction score
2,378
Location
Kent
Country
United Kingdom
Looks like it’s a cut down skirting, maybe ogee.
 
Joined
13 Jun 2015
Messages
92
Reaction score
7
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
I did contemplate repairing it. Just thought it would be easier to buy all new. Would save me stopping the paint off the rest.
That was until I realised it does t exactly look “off the shelf”
 

Attachments

  • 5809D1AC-56F7-46BC-9507-CFB2E5B26B25.jpeg
    5809D1AC-56F7-46BC-9507-CFB2E5B26B25.jpeg
    263.9 KB · Views: 53
  • 0465D27A-146A-4E23-80F8-FCF91E7EB6E9.jpeg
    0465D27A-146A-4E23-80F8-FCF91E7EB6E9.jpeg
    220.3 KB · Views: 52
Sponsored Links
Joined
13 Jun 2015
Messages
92
Reaction score
7
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Looks like it’s a cut down skirting, maybe ogee.
Didn’t think about skirting boards……

the original skirting was similar to ogee but slightly different. So maybe it was done to match that.

everything in this house is slightly different to anything In a shop ☹️
 
Joined
13 Jun 2015
Messages
92
Reaction score
7
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Ok that’s an idea worth trying then.

trouble is the split is at the thinnest point so not sure how much wood is left to actually glue together.

It won’t be grabbed in a fall. The stairs are like a u shape so it’s all a bit awkward anyway.

it’s the piece on the left of this picture that is split
 

Attachments

  • EACDC030-EA5A-4CC2-B04E-24DAB4E4B7FD.jpeg
    EACDC030-EA5A-4CC2-B04E-24DAB4E4B7FD.jpeg
    252.9 KB · Views: 49
Joined
2 Jul 2020
Messages
920
Reaction score
178
Country
United Kingdom
If you do use stixall you will destroy the wall before getting the wood off again. So beware!
 
Joined
13 Jun 2015
Messages
92
Reaction score
7
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
I just want to use it to repair the piece that’s damaged then screw to the Batton that needs fixing back to the wall
 
Joined
30 Sep 2011
Messages
10,068
Reaction score
2,389
Location
Lancashire
Country
United Kingdom
Looks like it’s a cut down skirting, maybe ogee.
Not ogee, but torus, but even that isn't 100% right. Technically that's a centre bead, albeit a big one, so the OP's assumption about it being a limited run might be right. It might possibly be dado rail, although I can't recall seeing any of that style. The other possibility is that having run the bull noses on the treads the cutter block was lifted a bit and some planed softwood was run through to produce the moulding. That might explain the rather wide grooves either side of the bead

To repair this I think I'd clean off the backs of the rails thoroughly, with a scraper or sharp plane if needs be, then glue a strip of 3 or 4mm hardwood plywood to the backs using a good quality PU adhesive and piloted and screwed to the backs of the original timbers (every 50 to 60mm in 2 rows) whilst the glue sets. Pilot drill before screwing and you should be able to avoid further splits. Remove all the screws when the glue is fully cured and clean up any squeeze out with a sharp chisel. Trim the edges flush (if required) with a plane.

The damaged area(s) can now be dealt with, either by cutting back and splicing in softwood repair section and shaping to match, or by filling with 2-pack filler and sanding/filing to the required shape. You can actually use the existing moulding to help make up a shaped sanding block (ask if unsure how to do this).

The resulting moulding(s) will now, potentially, be thicker than the original. In the case of a spliced and reshaped repair the plywood only needs to be applied where there is splitting and could be power planed off before reinstallation (after removing yhe screws!). In the case of a 2-pack repair the plywood stays on, will need to be applied to all the pieces, and the mitred ends will also need to be trimmed slightly to make it all fit properly
 
Last edited:
Joined
13 Jun 2015
Messages
92
Reaction score
7
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Thanks all for the advice. I shall attempt a repair…..

sorry for the late reply it’s been a mad weeek
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Top